Breeding
Strategies
``How
do fish make babies...and can I watch?''
Breeding
Tanks
Breeding
Requirements
A
varied diet.
Pick
fish for your water.
How
much time and effort is involved in keeping a fish tank?
Thermometers
Filters
Gravel
Lights
& Hood
Powerheads
Plants
Test
Kits
Chlorine
Chloramine
Well
Water
Speeding
Up Cycling Time
pH
Buffering
Capacity (KH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Alkalinity)
General
Hardness (GH)
Salinity
Nutrients
and Trace Elements
Raising
and Lowering pH
Softening
Your Water (i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish lowering GH)
Nitrite
Test Kit
Nitrate
Test Kit
pH
Test Kit
General
Hardness (GH) Kit
Fish
Stress and Healthy Fishkeeping
Common
Causes of Stress in the Aquarium
Symptoms
That Your Fish Is Stressed
Stopping
that !@*!@ Algae Plague
What
to do on Vacations
Moving
a Tank
Euthanasia
Breeding
Your Fish
Fish breed in many ways, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and yes you can watch. In fact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish watching fish breed is one of the great fascinations in the hobby because there
are so many interesting breeding strageties among fish.
There are two main strategies that fish use: egglaying and
livebearing.
Livebearing fish do what the name suggests. The female gives
birth to fully formed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish free-swimming young. The female fish is internally
fertilized by the male fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and carries the fry for about a month before
delivering them. Upon delivery, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the babies swim off, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hide, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and begin searching
for food.
Livebearers include the popular mollies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish platies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish swordtails, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and guppies. Other livebearers are halfbeaks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish anableps, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and fish in
the Goodeid family. They are easy to sex, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as the female is larger, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the male
has a rod-like anal fin called a gonopodium that he uses to internally
fertilize the female. After fertilization, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the female can produce multiple
batches of babies without a male present.
Egglaying is also what the name suggests: the fish lay eggs
instead of giving birth to little fish. As the fish grow, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they hatch into fry
with an attached yolk sac, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and then mature into fish. The process usually takes
around a week to 10 days, Portsmouth Tropical Fish although it can vary widely.
Egglayers have many methods of laying their eggs
Egg scatters usually scatter eggs around weeds, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or onto
gravel. The male chases the female during spawning, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the eggs are fertilized
as they fall. Spawning runs can be spectacular to watch since the fish race
around the tank and ignore anything else, Portsmouth Tropical Fish including food. Examples of egg
scatterers are tetras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish barbs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rasboras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and danios.
Substrate spawners are a little choosier about where they
put the eggs. They lay eggs that attatch to some sort of substrate. Plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rocks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish wood, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and even the aquarium glass may be chosen as a spawning site. Both
fish participate in the egg laying, Portsmouth Tropical Fish with the male
fertilizing the eggs as the female lays them. Examples of substrate spawners
are many catfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some cichlids, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and killifish.
Bubblenest builders lay their eggs in a nest of bubbles
blown by the male fish. The bubbles are held together with saliva and look like
foam. They tend to attract infusoria that the babies can eat, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and keep the eggs
at the surface of the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish where they are well-oxygenated. The eggs are laid
a few at a time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and carefully placed in the nest where they hatch. Examples of
bubblenest builders are bettas and gouramis.
Mouthbrooders actually keep their eggs in their mouths until
the eggs hatch. The eggs are again laid a few at a time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and once the male
fertilizes them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the parent doing the mouthbrooding gathers them up in his/her
mouth. That parent eats sparingly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if at all, Portsmouth Tropical Fish until the baby fish are released.
Examples of mouthbrooders are male arrowanas and female cichlids.
Marine fish also lay eggs. Some are substrate spawners, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but
many lay pelagic eggs that float in the plankton. There the eggs hatch into a
larval stage, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the larvae float freely and eat tiny plankton until they grow
into fish. See the Moe reference for a more complete description.
Breeding and Agression
``Help! Why have my angelfish (or kribs or African cichlids)
started killing everything in my tank?''
``Why did my female platy just turn around and eat her
babies?''
``I think my tetras spawned. Where are the eggs?''
Parental care in the fish world varies widely. Parents can
be anywhere on a continuum from eating all their eggs or fry, Portsmouth Tropical Fish to both parents
fiercely guarding their eggs and fry.
Many fish parents show some common behaviors, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so I will
discuss them here.
Most fish consider any and all fish eggs and young to be a
tasty treat. Therefore most fish will not hesitate to snack on any they find, Portsmouth Tropical Fish including their own. This means that egg scatters and many substrate spawners
really cannot be bred in a community tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as the eggs will quickly be eaten by
the parents and other fish. Marine fish and invertebrates also eat eggs.
Livebearers are especially notorious for eating their young.
A few fish ignore their eggs or fry, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and so can be bred in a
species tank. White cloud minnows can breed this way, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and many killifish will
at least ignore the eggs. Baby killies are fair game, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though. Guppies will also
often ignore babies.
Other fish have one parent that guards the eggs and fry.
Most bubblenest builders and mouthbrooders operate this way, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as do some
substrate spawners. The responsible male or female stays with
the eggs and young, Portsmouth Tropical Fish until they are free swimming. With bubblenest
builders, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the male tends the nest, Portsmouth Tropical Fish blows bubbles as they pop, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and keeps any
falling eggs or fry in it. He will also defend the nest against other fish.
Mouthbrooders simply hide their eggs in their mouths, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and some substrate
spawning catfish will hide the eggs underneath them. Certain substrate spawning
cichlids also have one parent care for the eggs and fry.
A more common setup among cichlids is to have both fish
guard and care for the young. This setup can be really fascinating to watch.
The parents will take turns fanning or blowing fresh water onto the eggs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
removing any fungused eggs. They will also fiercely defend the spawning site, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which can often cause injury or even death to other tankmates. Once the eggs
have hatched, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the parents will also guard the fry. Some fish will even move the
fry to a different place each day. Once the babies are free swimming, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some fish
continue to guard them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while others end their parental duties. Many African
cichlids guard their babies until they spawn again. Discus even feed their
babies off of their slimecoats.
A more extreme version of guarding is practiced by some
Tanganyikan cichlids. There, Portsmouth Tropical Fish older siblings will stay around the nest and help
the parents defend subsequent spawns. The babies are allowed to stay until
breeding age, Portsmouth Tropical Fish when they are driven off.
``My fish just laid eggs. How do I keep
the eggs or babies from being eaten?''
The most common way to keep eggs from being eaten is to use
a separate breeding tank. There the parents can spawn or give birth to their
young, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and be removed once they are done. Egg scatterers can be placed over a
piece of netting, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a grate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or a bed of marbles to protect the eggs as the fish
spawn. Bubblenest breeders and mouthbrooders can be left in the tank until they
stop caring for the young. Livebearers can be allowed to give birth in a dense
thicket of plants or plastic spawning grass, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so the babies can hide until the
mother is done giving birth and is removed.
A breeding tank also is good because it can be kept clean.
Eggs and fry need very clean water to hatch and grow. There are also no adults
around to compete with the babies for food. Many breeders use a bare tank with
only a sponge filter as filtration. Debris and extra food are easily seen and
siphoned off daily. Frequent water changes can be done on the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as there
are no other fish around to stress.
Another solution is to allow fish to breed on yarn mops, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a
plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or a piece of slate or glass in the community tank. The eggs can then be
moved to the breeding tank to grow. This works well for angelfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish catfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
Australian rainbowfish. Killifish eggs can be collected from peat or yarn mops
and set in a separate container or dried to incubate. Livebearers can be bred
in a commercial breeding trap or breeding net within a community tank. The trap
separates the babies from the mothers and then gives the babies a safe place to
grow.
Some cichlids protect their babies well enough to just be
left in a community setup, Portsmouth Tropical Fish although this can stress the other fish in the tank.
In fact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are species of cichlids that will turn on each other if there
are no other fish in the breeding tank for them to threaten.
``I have fish in a breeding setup, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but they just won't
breed.''
``Why do my fishes' eggs keep fungusing and the fry dying?''
Many fish will not breed successfully without specific
requirements. These include:
A mix of male and female fish.
I know this sounds obvious, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but some fish are not easy to
sex. In species that are difficult to sex, Portsmouth Tropical Fish is best to start out with at least
six young fish so that you are certain of getting both males and females.
Starting with many fish also gives monogamous fish a chance to pick compatible
mates. Sometimes if a single male and female are introduced, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they will not
breed. Other fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish like livebearers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish killifish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and polygamous cichlids need
more females that males so that females are not
harassed by amorous males.
Extremely clean water.
Most fish will not breed if there is any ammonia or nitrite
present, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and large amounts of nitrate are toxic to baby fish. Some fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish especially tetras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish must be bred in a breeding tank that is bare and sterile so
that their eggs do not fungus. For more information about clean water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish see the
beginner FAQ.
A varied diet.
Fish that are producing eggs need better food that fish that
are just living in a community. Breeders call the process of specially feeding
parents conditioning. Conditioning foods include live foods, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fresh frozen
foods, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or spirulina based foods. Find out the specific requirements of the fish
you intend to breed. If you need information about live foods, Portsmouth Tropical Fish see the live
food FAQ.
The correct environment.
Fish that breed on substrates need proper substrates to
breed on, Portsmouth Tropical Fish like peat, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rocks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish shells, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or plants. Some fish are shy and require a
lot of cover, Portsmouth Tropical Fish caves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or dim light. There are also fish that require a
particular water chemistry to breed. Examples are discus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which require very
soft, Portsmouth Tropical Fish acid water or African cichlids which require very hard, Portsmouth Tropical Fish alkaline water.
External cues.
Many tropical fish breed in the rainy season. When it rains, Portsmouth Tropical Fish streams flood, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the water hardness drops, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and there is thunder and lightning.
Adventuresome breeders with rainy season fish may try large water changes with
distilled water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish watering cans to simulate rain, Portsmouth Tropical Fish strong currents, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and even
flashing lights and loud noises. Temperature changes may also stimulate
spawning, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as may changes in the light/dark cycle.
Raising Fry
``My fish bred, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but I cannot raise the fry to adulthood.''
Rearing fish can take some work. Baby fish require clean
water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and some require special foods.
Baby livebearers are usually the easiest to raise. Some will take finely crushed flake foods from the
start, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and only require frequent water changes to keep up with their growth.
They also need algae or spirulina.
Baby egglayers are often more difficult to raise. Most are too small to eat adult fish foods, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and so
require special foods. Live baby brine shrimp are the food of choice for most
baby fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish although some require even smaller infusoria. Sifted daphnia also
work. Baby algae eating catfish require algae or blanched vegetables. There are
also commercial fry foods that work or, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in desperate situations, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cooked egg
yolk. Be careful, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though, Portsmouth Tropical Fish because non-living foods pollute the tank water
terribly -- especially egg yolk.
Actually, Portsmouth Tropical Fish keeping the tank water clean is probably the
biggest challenge in raising fish. The growing fish require lots of food, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
they are not very good at finding it which means even more must be added to the
tank. As in any fishtank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish adding lots of food must be balanced with keeping the
water quality extremely high. In fact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fry require cleaner water than adult
fish. Frequent water changes are a must, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as is efficient biological filtration.
Baby tanks often require daily water changes of up to half the tank. Sponge
filters are the preferred method of filtration because they are great
biological filters but cannot suck up baby fish.
Marine fish larvae have the strictest requirements of all.
They must be fed extremely small plankton or rotifers in a tank with
near-perfect water. For more discussion of marine fish rearing, Portsmouth Tropical Fish see Moe.
Finally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as the baby fish grow, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they must be transferred to
larger quarters. Clearly the 10 gallon tank that housed 100 fry cannot house
those 100 fish for long. Betta breeders have even more work on their hands, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since the little male bettas will fight and have to be put into separate jars
or a partitioned tank.
``I have a ton of baby fish. What do I do with them?''
``Can I make any money breeding fish?''
Finding homes for baby fish can be almost as much of a
challenge as breeding them. Young fish can be given away, Portsmouth Tropical Fish auctioned at aquarium
society auctions, Portsmouth Tropical Fish traded for other species, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or sold. Pet stores will sometimes
take African cichlids, Portsmouth Tropical Fish guppies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and bettas, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but many only give store credit
rather than cash.
As for turning breeding into a commercial venture, Portsmouth Tropical Fish remember
the laws of supply and demand. For most common community fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish pet stores can
order whatever they want whenever they want it from importers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish farms, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
wholesalers. The hobbyist, Portsmouth Tropical Fish on the other hand, Portsmouth Tropical Fish has occasional batches of fish
that the store may not need or want at that time. The only thing on your side
when you walk into a store with a batch of unrequested fish is that locally
bred fish are often healthier and less stressed that fish that have been
shipped and must be acclimated to local water conditions.
If you insist on breeding saleable fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish try rare catfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rare rainbows, Portsmouth Tropical Fish African cichlids, Portsmouth Tropical Fish show quality fancy guppies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or marine fish.
Those are all difficult for stores to obtain. To make money selling more common
fish like angels, Portsmouth Tropical Fish barbs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tetras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cory cats or livebearers (other than guppies), Portsmouth Tropical Fish you need many breeding tanks and breeding pairs of fish to assure a constant
supply. You must also have fish of consistent quality.
Personally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish I would recommend that you breed fish for the
sheer pleasure of it, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rather than turning your fun hobby into a business
venture. There is nothing like seeing a pair of ciclids court, Portsmouth Tropical Fish disappear into a
cave, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and emerge in a few days with a swarm of babies.
What constitutes success? Healthy fish that live a long
time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish quite likely even breeding and having babies. Success also means having a
tank that looks nice without a lot of maintenance (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish constantly battling
excessive algae growth).
How To Insure Your First Aquarium
Is a Success
Having a successful tank is not difficult, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nor is it
necessarily a lot of work, Portsmouth Tropical Fish provided you use some common sense. These guidelines
are based partly on science and partly on experience gleaned from aquarists
having many years experience in ``the art of fishkeeping.'' The following list
summarizes the most important rules for success. Each is discussed in more
detail in subsequent sections of this document.
Have patience.
Buying a tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish setting it up and filling it with fish all in
the same day, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while possible, Portsmouth Tropical Fish is a sure road to disaster. In fact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish setting up
and fully stocking your first tank will take close to two months!
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Providing an environment that minimizes fish stress is the
key to success. As fish become stressed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish their immune systems weaken and they
become more susceptible to disease. Moreover, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most fish medicines don't work
very well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish aren't worth the money, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and frequently do more damage than good.
Often, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the best treatment for sick fish is to relieve stress by
performing regular partial water
changes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish
not overfeeding, Portsmouth Tropical Fish
checking that your filtration
system works, Portsmouth Tropical Fish
giving them enough room to live, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
keeping them with compatible tank
mates.
(See the STRESS SECTION of this FAQ for full details.)
Understand and respect the nitrogen cycle.
Fish produce toxic wastes (ammonia) that must be broken down
by bacteria through biological filtration. Most fish deaths for first-time tank
owners are a direct result of not understanding the nitrogen cycle and are
completely avoidable. (The NITROGEN CYCLE SECTION explains how the process
works.)
Perform regular maintenance on your filter to keep it clean.
Dirty (clogged) filters operate at reduced efficiency. In
the case of biological filtration, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a clogged filter will be unable to remove
ammonia properly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish resulting in fish stress and eventually death. Floss-based
biological filters are cleaned by gently rinsing them in used tank water that
has been siphoned into a bucket. Undergravel filters are cleaned through regular
vacuuming. (Filters are discussed briefly in this beginner FAQ, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and in more
detail in their own FILTRATION FAQ.)
Properly treat all tap water before adding it to your tank.
Municipal water contains such added chemicals as chlorine or
chloramine to make it safe for human consumption. These substances are toxic to
fish and can weaken, Portsmouth Tropical Fish damage or even kill fish. (See
the WATER TREATMENT section of this FAQ for details.)
Take the time to learn basic water chemistry
Basic water chemistry is pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hardness and buffering. You
needn't enroll in a chemistry course, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but you should know enough about water
chemistry and the specifics of your local water supply so that you can keep
fish happy. Every location's water source is different, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and some fish won't be
able to survive in your water. You can learn details about your water from a
local fish store, Portsmouth Tropical Fish through the use of test kits, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and from local aquarium clubs
(or, Portsmouth Tropical Fish amazingly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish from the CHEMISTRY section of this FAQ).
Keep the pH of your tank's water stable.
Rapid pH changes stress fish. Tank water has a natural
tendency to become acidic due to the production of nitric acid (nitrates) from
the nitrogen cycle. Keeping pH stable requires having adequate ``buffering''.
If your water is soft, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you may need to add buffering agents. Again, Portsmouth Tropical Fish see the
CHEMISTRY section for details.
Avoid adding chemicals that lower the pH (e.g. ``pH-Down'').
Such chemicals frequently have undesirable side-effects
(e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish stimulate algae growth). Moreover, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in most cases (despite what books and
stores tell you) the pH of water DOES NOT need to be adjusted to make it ``more
perfect'' for a particular species of fish. If the pH of your tap water is
between 6.5 and 7.5, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is just fine for most fish. (This is discussed in the
CHEMISTRY section too!)
Select fish who are native to
waters having a similar chemical properties (pH and GH) to your local tap
water. If you have hard water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish choose hard water fish. If you have soft water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish choose soft water fish. This is especially important if you water is outside
the 6.5-7.5 pH range. Changing the natural hardness (or pH) of your tap water
can be hard work and often takes the fun out of keeping aquariums. Moreover, Portsmouth Tropical Fish bungled attempts at adjustment are common and often worse for fish than the
original sub-optimal water conditions. A good way to learn which fish live
happily in your local water is to check with a local fish store (or club).
Choose the fish to fit your tank.
Select fish that are compatible with each other and think
long-term. That 1 inch fish sure looks cute at a store. But what will you do
when it gets 6 inches long and views its cohabitants as potential meals? Fish
have specific minimal space requirements that are dependent on their physical
size and temperament. Select fish whose needs will be met in your tank. Be sure
your tank has adequate hiding places (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish rocks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish driftwood, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.) for
its inhabitants.
Properly acclimate fish before adding them them to your
tank.
(Details are covered in the section on ADDING FISH.) NEVER
add store water to your tank (it may contain diseases), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and if feasible, Portsmouth Tropical Fish quarantine new purchases for 2-3 weeks before adding them to your tank.
Perform regular partial water changes.
Changing 25% of your tank's water every other week serves
two purposes: it dilutes and removes nitrate before it accumulates to dangerous
levels, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and it replaces trace elements and buffers that get used up by
bacteria, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. Finally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish regular partial water changes help insure that your tank's water chemistry doesn't deviate
significantly from that of your tap water. The latter benefit is especially
important should disease strike your tank; water changes are the most important
step in controlling disease, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and large water changes are not safe unless the
chemical composition (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish pH and GH) of your tank's water is similar to your
tap water.
Shop only at ``reputable'' stores.
Sadly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many pet stores are more interested in taking your
money than selling you healthy fish. It is almost always worth spending a
little more money to get quality fish. Diseases introduced to your tank with
newly purchase fish may infect your other fish with catastrophic results.
Buying a low cost fish is also not much of a bargain if it dies less than a
month later. But many stores will instead try to sell you equipment and
medications you don't really need. Your best defense is to arm yourself with
knowledge so that you can properly evaluate their advice. Some hints for finding
``reputable'' stores can be found in the STORES SECTION.
The above summary serves as a reminder of the principles
that lead to happy fish keeping. Each of these topics (and many more) is
discussed in the remainder of this document.
For a 10-20g tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish once it is set up, Portsmouth Tropical Fish expect to spend about
30 minutes every other week doing partial water changes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cleaning the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. If this is too much time for you, Portsmouth Tropical Fish DON'T GET INTO THIS HOBBY! You will also
spend a few minutes once or twice a day feeding your fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish turning the lights
on and off, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. Warning: many people spend much more time than this simply
looking at their tank and its inhabitants. Of course, Portsmouth Tropical Fish that is the whole point.
:-)
Be prepared to spend several hours researching the hobby
before you make your first purchase. The more time you spend BEFORE you
actually get the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the smoother things will go. Go to several pet stores to
find one that looks like a reputable place. Visit them again several more
times. Get some beginner books. Read this beginner FAQ several times.
Most people who get frustrated with fish tanks made mistakes
that could have been easily avoided. The way to avoid mistakes is to learn the
basics (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish the nitrogen cycle) BEFORE you put fish in your tank. There are
few things more upsetting than frantically reading the FAQ for the first time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while three feet away your beloved fish are dying. Remember: most aquarium
problems are easy to prevent, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but hard to deal with after the fact.
Where To Get Your Equipment
All fish stores sell tank setups containing ``everything you
need'' for one price. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a smart shopper looks carefully at what the
package contains to be sure it includes only what you need (and doesn't include
things you don't). Packages vary from store to store, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some are more appropriate
than others. Be especially wary of setups bought at discount stores (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Hartz'' brand). They often include obsolete technology, Portsmouth Tropical Fish noisy pumps, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cheap
heaters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.
Garage sales are a great way to get into the hobby cheaply.
However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a few cautions are in order. Before buying the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish examine it
closely for cracks or scratches. Although cracks can be fixed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish doing so is more
hassle (for a beginner) than it is worth. Don't buy a scratched tank; algae
will grow in the scratches making the tank look bad. Be wary of really old
equipment. It may no longer work well.
Before setting up the tank (especially if the tank is used), Portsmouth Tropical Fish check it for leaks. Fill it with water outside and leave it for a week. A leak
on your carport is a lot less of a problem than one in your living room.
To clean the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish NEVER use soaps or detergents. Use water
and nothing else. If you want to sterilize the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. wash
everything plastic in a mild bleach solution (use pure bleach, Portsmouth Tropical Fish not one with
other additives). Rinse everything well in clean water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and let everything soak
a bit in a solution with a bit of added dechlorinator. (Non-plastic) gravel can
be sterilized through boiling.
Equipment: What's Essential and What's Not
Tons of aquarium gadgets are available at pet stores. Some
are essential, Portsmouth Tropical Fish others are useful only for specialized applications, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and some
are completely useless (though stores selling them probably won't tell you
that). The following checklist shows the items that will likely to be of use to
you.
Tanks
Tanks come in many shapes and sizes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but there are only two
types: glass and acrylic. You will probably want to get a glass tank. In
summary:
Glass Acrylic
===== =======
cheapest per gallon more expensive per gallon
hard to scratch scratches easily (e.g.
scraping algae
with razor blade)
scratches permanent scratches can be buffed out
(though
not easily)
higher index of refraction lower IOR (tank distorts less when
viewed from angle)
empty tank heavy same sized tank weighs less
(empty)
(important with tanks >30g)
Tank stand only needs to Special
stand needed that supports
support
edges entire base of tank (not just edges)
more easily broken harder to break
The size and shape of the tank is completely up to you.
However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish keep the following in mind:
Contrary to first impressions, Portsmouth Tropical Fish larger tanks are not
necessarily more work than smaller ones (within reason, Portsmouth Tropical Fish see the TABLES AND
CONVERSIONS for information on large tanks). In particular, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is easier to
keep water chemistry stable in larger tanks than in smaller ones (the less
water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the more easily a small chemical change causes a big change in relative
concentration).
Much of the regular maintenance work does not require twice
the time for twice the size. For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a regular partial water change for a
larger tank may require one more bucket of water than for a small tank. That
doesn't translate into twice the work, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since you already have the bucket and
siphon ready, Portsmouth Tropical Fish your hands are already wet, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.
It is very common for people to really like their fish tank
and want to add more fish. A larger tank can hold more fish safely. Indeed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a
single 10g tank adequately supports only a handful of medium sized fish.
Note, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however, Portsmouth Tropical Fish that the number of fish that a tank can
safely hold depends not only on the volume of the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but on its shape. For
example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some fish spend their entire lives near the bottom. Doubling the
volume of a tank by doubling its height won't allow you to keep more bottom
dwelling fish. Surface area is more important than volume in determining how
many fish a tank can support.
If possible, Portsmouth Tropical Fish start with at 20g (or larger) rather than a 10g
(or smaller). A 20g (``high'' or ``tall'') makes an excellent first tank size.
Avoid all tanks smaller than 10g. They are simply too small to keep healthy.
For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish although many stores sell them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the tiny 1 gallon goldfish bowls
are totally inadequate for even a single fish. Stay away from them!
Heaters
If you are keeping tropical fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will need a heater. A
heater insures that a tank doesn't get too cool, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and that the temperature stays
steady during the course of the day, Portsmouth Tropical Fish even when the room cools off (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish at
night). For many tropical fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a temperature of 78F is ideal.
There are two main heater types. Submersible heaters stay
completely below the water. A second, Portsmouth Tropical Fish more traditional style, Portsmouth Tropical Fish has a partially
submerged glass tube (which contains the heating coils), Portsmouth Tropical Fish but leaves the
controls above the water. Submersible heaters are the better design, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as they
can be placed horizontally along the tank's bottom. This helps keep tank
temperature uniform (heat rises), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and prevents the heater from becoming exposed
while doing partial water changes. With the traditional design, Portsmouth Tropical Fish one must
remember to unplug the heater before doing water changes; if the heater is
accidentally left on while the coil is above the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the tube gets hot and
may crack when you fill the tank back up with water.
If your room is never more than 8-10F degrees cooler than
your target tank temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a heater of roughly 2.5 Watts per gallon will
suffice. If the differential is higher, Portsmouth Tropical Fish up to 5 Watts (or more) per gallon may
be necessary. Remember, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the heater needs to keep the tank at its target
temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish even when the room is at its coldest point; the tank's temperature
should not fluctuate.
Heaters (especially cheap ones) will fail. Most often the contact that actually turns the heater on and off
gets permanently stuck, Portsmouth Tropical Fish either in the on or off position. In the former
case, Portsmouth Tropical Fish your tank can get VERY hot, Portsmouth Tropical Fish especially if the heater is larger than your
tank actually requires. To minimize potential problems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish avoid heaters larger
than the optimal size for your tank. To prevent winter disasters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish use two
smaller heaters in parallel rather than one large one. That way if one fails, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the consequences won't be as disastrous.
You will need a thermometer to verify that your tank stays
at its proper temperature. Two types are commonly available. The traditional
bulb thermometer works the same way as the ones you can buy for your house.
They either hang from the top edge of your tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or float along the surface.
The second common design is a flat model that sticks to the outside of the
glass. In this design, Portsmouth Tropical Fish liquid crystals activate at a specific temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish either highlighting the numerical temperature or a bar that slides along a
scale.
Aquarium thermometers can be rather unreliable (check out
the ones on display at a fish store --- they should all register the same
temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but frequently don't). Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish thermometers are good for verifying
that your temperature is not too far off, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but may be off by several degrees in
some cases. When buying a thermometer, Portsmouth Tropical Fish look at all the
thermometers and pick one that has an ``average'' temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rather than one
of the extremes.
There are three types of filtration: biological, Portsmouth Tropical Fish mechanical
and chemical. Biological filtration decomposes the toxic ammonia that fish
produce as waste products. All fish tanks MUST have biological filtration;
biological filtration is the cheapest, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most efficient and most stable way to
breakdown toxic ammonia. Mechanical filtration traps such particles as plant
leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish uneaten food, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. (collectively known as mulm), Portsmouth Tropical Fish allowing them to be
removed from the tank before they decompose into ammonia. Chemical filtration
(e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish activated carbon, Portsmouth Tropical Fish zeolite, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.) can remove (under limited
circumstances) such substances as ammonia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish heavy metals, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dissolved organics, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. through chemistry (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``adsorbtion'' or ``ion-exchange resins'').
Chemical filtration is mostly useful for dealing with short-term problems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish such
as removing medications after they've served their purpose, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or purifying tap water before it goes into a tank. A healthy tank DOES NOT
require the use of chemical filters such as activated carbon.
One point about filtration cannot be made enough. ALL FISH
TANKS MUST HAVE BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION. Although chemical filtration can remove
ammonia under limited circumstances, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it are NOT a
general solution.
Typical filters perform some or all of the three filtration
types in series. Mechanical filtration (if present) usually comes first (where
it is called a ``pre-filter''), Portsmouth Tropical Fish trapping particles that might clog remaining
stages. Biological usually comes next, Portsmouth Tropical Fish followed by the chemical filtration
section (if present). Whether or not chemical filtration is useful (or even
helpful) depends on who you talk to. It can be useful for removing fish
medicines after their effectiveness has ended (partial water changes do the
same thing though). They can also remove trace elements necessary for plant
growth (with obvious results). Unless you have a good reason to believe that
your circumstances require chemical filtration, Portsmouth Tropical Fish avoid it.
Filters are not maintenance-free. For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if debris is
allowed to accumulate in a mechanical filter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it decomposes into ammonia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish negating its primary purpose. Likewise, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a biological filter's effectiveness
diminishes as it becomes clogged. Biological filtration requires water movement
across a large surface area on which bacteria have attached (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish floss or
gravel). The less surface area available, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the less effective
the filter. UGFs are cleaned by regularly vacuuming the gravel (e.g.
while doing partial water changes). Canister and power filters are cleaned by
removing the media and gently squeezing it in a bucket of used tank water (tap
water may contain bacteria-killing chlorine).
There is no magic formula for what size
filter one needs. Consult with specific manufacturer's ratings and be
conservative. You can't have too much filtering (though you can have too much
water movement), Portsmouth Tropical Fish so err on the side of overfiltering. Filters are discussed in
more detail in a separate FILTER FAQ.
Gravel serves three main purposes. First, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it serves as
decoration, Portsmouth Tropical Fish making your tank look nicer. Second, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if using an UGF, Portsmouth Tropical Fish gravel is
mandatory as it is the filter media (the surface area on which bacteria
attach). Third, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in plant tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it serves as a ``substrate'' (e.g. dirt) for
plant roots (consult the PLANT FAQ for details on what quantity and type of
substrate is appropriate for plants). Ultimately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the choice of color, Portsmouth Tropical Fish size, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc. is up to you. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish be aware that dark gravel better highlights a
fish's colors. Fish adjust their colors to match that of the surroundings, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
light gravel tends to wash out a fish's true colors.
Most of the gravel sold for aquariums is plastic coated. For
obvious reasons, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should not boil it. :-) It is also very expensive ($1 a
pound). Gravel can be purchased for much less at patio stores (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish Wallmart, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Home Quarters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish local sand and gravel suppliers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.). However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it often tends
to be larger than ideal and too light in color (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish marble chips). Sand can
also be used.
Be aware that not all gravel is inert. For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish coral, Portsmouth Tropical Fish sea shells, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dolomite and limestone will release (leach) carbonates into the
tank raising its pH buffering capacity (see the CHEMISTRY SECTION for details).
When keeping African rift lake cichlids, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this is desirable. But in most other
cases, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will not want your gravel affecting the water chemistry. As a quick
test, Portsmouth Tropical Fish drip an acid (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish vinegar) onto the gravel in question. If it foams or
bubbles, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the gravel is going to leach carbonates into the water. To be
absolutely sure, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fill a bucket of gravel with water and measure the pH over a
period of a week. If the pH remains stable, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it should be safe to use in your
tank.
When used for the first time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish gravel should be washed
thoroughly. Simply rinse clean water through it until the water comes out clear
(tap water is fine). For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish put the gravel in a bucket of water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fill it
with water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and churn the gravel up. Drain the water and repeat the procedure
until the water remains clear. Before using gravel of unknown origin (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish not
purchased at a fish store), Portsmouth Tropical Fish you may (as a precaution) want to boil it for 15
minutes to kill unwanted bacteria.
Driftwood and other Decorations
It is safe to place items in your tank as long as they are
inert, Portsmouth Tropical Fish meaning they won't release (leach) chemicals into the water. Most
plastics are inert inert, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as are glass and ceramic.
Wood may leach substances into the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish changing the pH in
a possibly inappropriate manner. Driftwood often leaches tannins and other
humic acids into the water (much like peat moss), Portsmouth Tropical Fish possibly softening it and
lowering its pH. The water may also obtain a yellowish tea-colored tint. The
tint is not harmful and can be removed by filtering the water through activated
charcoal.
If you use wood that you've found yourself (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish woods or
lake), Portsmouth Tropical Fish boil it first to kill any pathogens. Boiling it (long enough) will also
make it sink.
You will probably want to purchase lights and a hood. A hood
prevents fish from jumping out of the tank and reduces the rate at which water
evaporates. A good hood effectively seals the tank (except perhaps where the
heater and filter reside). You want as little water as possible evaporating as
it may raise the room's humidity to unacceptable levels and requires more
maintenance (i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will have to ``top off'' the tank once or twice a week
to replace the lost water).
There are two styles of hoods. Full hoods combine the light
and hood as a single unit. Hoods include space for only 1 or 2 (parallel)
fluorescent light tubes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which is fine for fish-only tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but not usually
enough for growing plants. Glass ``canopies'' cover the tank with two strips of
glass connected by a plastic hinge, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but don't include lighting. A separate
strip (or other) light is used in conjunction with it. Canopies are a bit
better for plant tanks than full hoods; one can upgrade or change the lighting
without replacing the entire hood, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and in situations
where very high wattage is needed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish one can usually fit more light bulbs
directly above the tank.
Light serves two purposes. It highlights and shows off your
fish's colors and provides (critical) energy for plants (if present).
Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the two purposes conflict somewhat. In a fish-only tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a
single low-wattage fluorescent bulb suffices and does a good job of showing a
fish's true colors (most fish don't like bright lights either). If you want to
grow plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however, Portsmouth Tropical Fish more light is needed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the bulb's spectrum becomes an
issue; be sure to consult the lighting sections in the PLANT FAQ before
purchasing your light and hood setup.
Whether or not you will be growing plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fluorescent lights
are the way to go. Incandescent bulbs give off too much heat, Portsmouth Tropical Fish causing your tank
to overheat in the summer. Fluorescent bulbs run cooler and use less
electricity for the same amount of light. Note that in the summer time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish even
fluorescent lighting can produce enough heat to lead to tank overheating
problems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if your house gets warm (e.g, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you live in the tropics and don't have
air conditioning).
Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish light grows not only plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but algae. If
your tank contains lots of the kind of light plants desire, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and there are no
plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish algae quickly fills the void. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ideal
lighting for fish-only tanks differs significantly from that for a plant tank.
Two components of light are of particular importance: intensity (i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish wattage)
and spectrum. Plants require intense light and certain spectral ranges produce
more growth than others.
Different types of bulbs give off light in different
spectral regions. So-called ``full-spectrum'' bulbs attempt to reproduce the
sun's full spectral range. They are good both for growing plants and bringing
out a fish's natural colors. Specialized ``plant'' bulbs (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish gro-lux, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.)
emphasize a spectral range that stimulates plant growth. Such bulbs grow plants
(and algae!) well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but fish don't look quite right under them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish because the
light does not have the spectrum of normal sunlight. The common ``cool white''
bulbs give off light designed for humans in windowless offices; they neither
grow plants particularly well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nor bring out a fish's natural colors. As a quick
rule of thumb, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 2-4 watts/gallon of full-spectrum (or specialized ``plant'')
lighting is good for plants; for fish-only tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish use less than 1 watt/gallon, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and avoid using plant bulbs.
A powerhead is a water pump that runs completely submerged in
a tank. They typically attach to the ``lift tubes'' associated with UGF
filters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish pulling water through the lift tube. The stream of outgoing water can
usually be oriented in (almost) any direction, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and it is common to point them
in such a way that water circulates throughout the tank and stirs up or
``agitates'' the surface a bit.
Air Pumps
An air pump simply bubbles air through your tank. Air pumps
serve two purposes. First, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they insure that your tank maintains an adequate
concentration of oxygen. An air pump is NOT required for this purpose, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as long
as your tank maintains adequate water movement together with surface agitation.
This is generally the case if external (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish box or cannister) filters are
used. Second, Portsmouth Tropical Fish air pumps can be used to force water through a filter (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish sponge or corner filter). If using a UGF, Portsmouth Tropical Fish for example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish an air pump produces
bubbles that force water up the uplift tubes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish pulling water through the filter.
In larger tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish powerheads perform the same function. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish an air pump is not
required, Portsmouth Tropical Fish provided your tank has good water circulation.
Stands
You will need some sort of stand on which to place your
tank. The stand can either be specially designed to hold your tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or existing
furniture. The first thing to consider is whether your chosen stand can support
the tank's weight. When full of water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tanks weigh a LOT
(the water alone weighs roughly 10 lbs/gallon). Consult THE TABLES in the
INTRODUCTARY FAQ for detailed specs on common aquarium sizes.
If you live in an older or cheaply constructed home, Portsmouth Tropical Fish give
consideration to how weight is distributed among the stand's supports. The
larger the surface area of the leg stands, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the less instantaneous pressure (per
square inch) on the floor. You don't want the stand to crash through your floor!
If you plan to have a large tank (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish 55g or more), Portsmouth Tropical Fish be sure the floor itself
can properly support the weight. For big tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish try to place the tank
perpendicular to the floor joists (so that the weight is distributed over
multiple joists). Placing your tank near a load bearing wall is also safer than
placing in the middle of your floor.
Stands should keep the tank level, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in order to keep weight
distributed properly. An un-level tank places stress in the wrong places, Portsmouth Tropical Fish increasing the odds of having the tank break (yes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this does actually happen
sometimes). In order to more evenly distribute weight on the stand, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is a
good idea to place a 1/4 inch sheet of Styrofoam between the stand and the
tank.
There are two kinds of plants (depending on who you talk
to): real and plastic. Both kinds provide decoration and hiding places for
fish. Plastic plants are (obviously) easier to maintain. Although it is
possible to grow real plants in an aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is not always trivial to do so
(e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants have special lighting requirements). If you are at all interested
in trying to grow real plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish consult the PLANT FAQ before purchasing your
tank --- especially the hood.
Miscellaneous Cleaning Tools
Siphoning is the easiest way to remove water from a tank.
For large tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish using a ``water python'' or other long hose allows one to
dispense with the bucket and siphon water directly into a drain or outside
garden. When removing water via siphoning, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should also clean (``vacuum'')
your gravel. Many ``water changing'' hoses are available at local fish stores
and include a gravel cleaning attachment. The basic idea behind them is to
connect a wide mouthed tube to the end of the siphon hose. When the tube is
plunged into the gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the water flow churns up the gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but only the
detritus (dirt, Portsmouth Tropical Fish mulm, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc) is light enough to be siphoned out. Note that the
dirty water being removed from your tank contains nitrates, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which make an
excellent fertilizer for your flower or vegetable garden.
To remove algae from the side of your tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a plastic, Portsmouth Tropical Fish non-soapy scouring pad can be used. If you have an acrylic tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish be especially
careful that the pad isn't hard enough to scratch the side. Many types of algae
can be wiped free using the floss inserts made for Whisper filters (cheap and
can't scratch).
Some of the slower growing algae simply can't be removed
with a scouring pad without a lot of work (and churning of the tank!). A razor
blade works best at this point. Go to your local fish store and purchase a
scraper that has a long (foot long) handle with a razor blade on one end. A
razor blade can be used to remove just about anything from the sides of a tank.
However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish razor blades CAN scratch glass, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if one is not careful.
So-called ``magnet cleaners'' can also be helpful for
removing algae. A scraping block on the inside of the tank is held in place by
a magnet held on the outside of the tank. Moving the outside magnet moves the
scraping block, Portsmouth Tropical Fish removing algae without having to plunge your entire arm in the
tank. The best magnet cleaners are those with a strong magnetic field (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish larger magnets), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and they work best on smaller tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which have thinner glass.
A toothbrush is one of the most effective tools for removing
algae from the inside of plastic tubing.
Bucket For Water Changes
You will need at least one bucket for adding and removing
water from your tank. Use the largest bucket you can comfortably work with
(e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish up to 5 gallons). Use it only for your aquarium and don't ever put any
chemicals in it.
Nets
You will need at least one fish net, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and having two is
better; catching fish is easier if you use one net to chase fish into the
other. Nets with a fine mesh are harder to use because of their high water
resistance. The right net size will of course depend on the size of your fish.
Note: netting fish is stressful. In particular, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the fish net
scrapes off some of a fish's protective slime coating. If
possible, Portsmouth Tropical Fish when catching fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish use a net to chase the fish into a small plastic
or glass jar.
You will probably want to buy some test kits for measuring
things like ammonia concentrations. Because there are so many kits, Portsmouth Tropical Fish recommendations as to which to buy are given in a separate
Like all businesses, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish stores have to make money to
survive. Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some are more interested in profits than selling you
just what you need and nothing more. Consequently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a smart customer is a
careful shopper.
Of course no store is 100% perfect all the time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but the
difference between a good store and poor one can be astonishing once you've
been to a few. Visit a store several times, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and don't rely on just one
experience. If the same bad patterns are present on multiple visits, Portsmouth Tropical Fish find
another store.
The following highlights some of the things that distinguish
a good, Portsmouth Tropical Fish reputable store from one you should avoid.
If the fish don't look good at the store, Portsmouth Tropical Fish chances are they
won't survive long after you bring them home; they may already have been
stressed beyond the point of recovery.
A store's fish tanks should be clean and the fish should
look healthy and unstressed (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish no nipped fins, Portsmouth Tropical Fish good colors, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish active, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.). Are dead fish removed quickly? All stores will have fish die in their
tanks; good stores will remove them quickly (fish covered with fungus have probably
been dead a long time).
Do any of the fish show signs of disease such as ick (tiny
white spots)? A good store won't sell you ANY fish from a tank that has ick, Portsmouth Tropical Fish even if the specific fish you are purchasing looks OK.
Are incompatible fish kept in the same tank? If so, Portsmouth Tropical Fish how can
you trust the advice they give you concerning compatible inhabitants for your
tank?
Check out the store's policy on fish returns. A good store
will give you full credit on fish deaths for a period of a few days, Portsmouth Tropical Fish provided
you bring in a water sample so that they can test your water for ammonia.
Are the sales staff knowledgeable
about what they are selling? A good store will ask you about your tank (size, Portsmouth Tropical Fish inhabitants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.) in order to find out whether a prospective fish purchase would
be a good addition to your tank. A bad store will sell you whatever you want;
they'll be happy to sell you more fish later, Portsmouth Tropical Fish after incompatible inhabitants
have killed each other.
For beginning aquarists, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a good store will take the time to
explain the nitrogen cycle, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and advise you to wait on fish purchases until your
tank has become established. A bad store will neglect to mention the nitrogen
cycle, Portsmouth Tropical Fish until you return a few days later wondering wondering why your fish died
(now they can sell you more fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and maybe ``nitrification bacteria'' to go
with it!).
Ask lots of questions. Be wary of vague answers; they are a
sign that the seller doesn't know the answer (and isn't willing to find out), Portsmouth Tropical Fish or worse.
Like that tiny oscar fish? A good
store will warn you that oscar fish get VERY big, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
verify that your tank is big enough and that none of its inhabitants will get
eaten by the oscar. A bad store will remain silent.
Be wary of adding medications to your tank; they frequently
don't work or are unnecessary. (See the DISEASE FAQ.) A good store will first
ask about your tank's water quality, Portsmouth Tropical Fish verify that cycling has completed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc., Portsmouth Tropical Fish and suggest water changes. They will also recommend medications only if they
can identify the specific disease. A ``bad'' store will encourage you to buy
medicine, Portsmouth Tropical Fish without regard to whether the specific medicine is useful in
combating the specific problem you have. A good store will ask you what fish
you have in the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as some medications are toxic to certain species of fish.
A bad store will let you find out the hard way.
As a (very) general rule of thumb, Portsmouth Tropical Fish stores that specialize in
aquariums are better than stores that sell fish as a sideline. In the former
case, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a ``bad'' store won't make money over the long haul (they can only sucker
customers once or twice) and will eventually go out of business. In the latter
case, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a store's fish department may continually lose money, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but remain open because
the rest of the store (e.g, Portsmouth Tropical Fish puppy sales) is making money. Of course, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are
exceptions.
Finally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish buying fish at the cheapest store isn't necessarily
a good bargain. A healthy fish is worth paying extra for. A sick fish may
infect all of your tank's inhabitants or die shortly after purchase; some
bargain.
Is a pattern becoming clear? A good store is knowledgeable
about the products they sell and will take the time to be sure the customer is
making a purchase that they will be happy with in the long term. They want your
repeat business in the future. A bad store will encourage (or fail to
discourage) you from buying things you don't need.
Municipal Tap Water in the Aquarium
Most people use tap water in their tanks; it is cheap and
easy to use. Unfortunately (for aquarists), Portsmouth Tropical Fish local water companies add chemicals
to the water to make it safe to drink (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish chlorine or chloramine to kill
bacteria). More recently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish concern about water flowing through older lead pipes
has caused some water utilities to add pH-raising chemicals to the water
(because lead dissolves less readily in alkaline water). Consequently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tap
water must be specially treated before it can safely be used in fish tanks.
Another potential problem concerns variability in the
chemical properties of your water supply over time (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish month-to-month). Some
water districts don't have enough water themselves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish forcing them to purchase additional water from neighboring water districts in
times of shortages. If this water has a different chemical
properties (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish hardness), Portsmouth Tropical Fish your tap water's chemistry will vary as well.
As a common example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish high bacteria levels are more of a problem in summer than
winter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish especially in warmer climates. Consequently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is not uncommon for
water companies to use more chlorine in summer months to keep bacteria in
check. Even such factors as local weather can have an impact; heavy rains may
cause the hardness of your water supply to decrease as local reservoirs fill.
In general, Portsmouth Tropical Fish chlorine and chloramine are the two additives
that cause the most problems. Note that these two substances are VERY
DIFFERENT! Be sure you know what is in your tap water and treat appropriately.
In the US, Portsmouth Tropical Fish EPA guidelines require that tap water at any faucet contain a minimal chlorine
concentration of 0.2 ppm, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and stringently limits the concentration of bacteria
(which may require more than 0.2 ppm chlorine to keep in check). Because
chlorine breaks down over time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the chlorine concentration of the water that
comes out of your tap will be lower than that put in at water plant. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the
exact concentration at your faucet depends on how far you are from the water
plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish how long it takes the water to travel from the water plant to your
house, Portsmouth Tropical Fish how much chlorine is initially added, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.
Chlorine at high concentrations is toxic to fish; at lower
concentrations, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it stresses fish by damaging their gills. Concentrations of as
little as 0.2-0.3 ppm kill most fish fairly rapidly. To
prevent stress, Portsmouth Tropical Fish concentrations as low as 0.003 ppm may be required.
Fortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish chlorine can easily be removed from water by the chemical sodium
thiosulfate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish readily available at fish stores under various brands. Sodium
thiosulfate neutralizes chlorine instantly. Note that there are many ``water
treatment'' products that are advertised as ``making tap water safe''. Read
labels carefully. Inevitably, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ones that neutralize chlorine all contain
sodium thiosulfate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plus other substances that may or may not be useful. If
your water only contains chlorine (as opposed to chloramine), Portsmouth Tropical Fish sodium
thiosulfate is all you need. The most cost-effective treatments use only 1 drop
per gallon of water. Most other water treatments are much more expensive in the
long-term; they may require a teaspoon of treatment (or more) per gallon!
Chlorine is relatively unstable in water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish escaping to the
atmosphere on its own. Water left in a bucket (or tank) with adequate water
circulation (e.g. filter or airstone) will be free of chlorine in 24 hours or
less.
Many netters report that they perform partial water changes
without ever treating their tap water to remove chlorine. Keep in mind that
even though fish show no APPARENT ill effects from untreated water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish that
doesn't mean that the chlorine isn't stressing your fish. How much stress
depends on how much chlorine is introduced to the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which depends on many
factors (including the percentage of new water added).
Because chlorine removers are so cheap (pennies per usage), Portsmouth Tropical Fish the insurance they
provide should not be passed up.
One problem with using chlorine to treat water is that it
breaks down relatively quickly. Another concern with the use of chlorine is
that it can combine with certain organics (that may or may not be present in
your water) forming trihalomethanes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a family of carcinogens. Consequently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many water companies have switched from using chlorine to using chloramine.
Chloramine, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a compound containing both chlorine and ammonia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish is much more
stable than chlorine.
Chloramine poses two significant headaches for aquarists. First, Portsmouth Tropical Fish chlorine-neutralizing chemicals such as sodium thiosulfate only neutralize the
chlorine portion of the chloramine, Portsmouth Tropical Fish neglecting an even bigger problem: deadly
ammonia. The consequences can be devastating to fish. Although a tank's
biological filter will (eventually) convert the ammonia to nitrate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the time it
takes to do so may be longer than what your fish can tolerate.
The second problem relates to water changes. One of the
primary reasons for doing regular water changes is to remove nitrates that build
up. If your replacement tap water contains ammonia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you'll be putting nitrogen
right back into your tank and it will be impossible to reduce the nitrates
below the concentration in your tap water. Fortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tap water
concentrations are relatively low (1 or 2 ppm); you are more likely to have a
much higher concentration of nitrate in your tank.
Chloramine can be safely neutralized through such products
as Amquel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which neutralize both the ammonia and chlorine portions of the
chloramine molecules. The neutralized ammonia will still be converted to
nitrates via a biological filter.
Another method for neutralizing chloramine is to age the
water while simultaneously performing biological filtration. For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish get
an appropriately-sized (plastic) garbage can, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fill it with tap water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dechlorinate it with sodium thiosulfate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and then connect an established
biological filter to it. Just as in your tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the bio filter will convert the
ammonia to nitrate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish after which it can safely be added to your tank. Note: you
must add sodium thiosulfate to neutralize the chlorine; otherwise, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the
chloramine will kill the bacteria in your biological filter.
Alternatively, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ammonia can removed
by filtering the water through zeolite or carbon before adding it to your tank.
[Note: folks report mixed success with this. If you have concrete (positive or
negative) experience to report, Portsmouth Tropical Fish please notify the FAQ maintainers.]
Other water impurities you should be aware of
In addition to the additives described above (chlorine and
chloramine), Portsmouth Tropical Fish municipal water may (or may not!) contain other elements that the
aquarist may need to know about. Water in some locations actually contains
nitrates. In some places, Portsmouth Tropical Fish water contains elevated concentrations of phosphates
(1 ppm or more). High phosphate has been linked to algae problems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and a
comprehensive algae control strategy may require removing phosphates. High
levels of iron (1 ppm or more) have also been linked to thread algae. Consult
the algae section of this FAQ for more details.
How to Find out What Your Local Water Company Adds to Your
Tapwater
The quick answer is to ask someone who knows. A local fish
store (if they reside in the same water district as you do) should be able to
tell you. Alternatively, Portsmouth Tropical Fish call your local water utility. Ask to speak with the
``water chemist''. Tell them you are an aquarist and want to know about the pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish GH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and KH of your water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as well as how much the water characteristics vary
from month to month. Finally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish (in the US) if you really want details, Portsmouth Tropical Fish have them send you a copy of the periodic water report they are required to
generate for the EPA. It contains a detailed listing of exactly what your water
contains and in what concentrations (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish iron, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrates, Portsmouth Tropical Fish phosphates, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.).
By law, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the report is available for public inspection.
You may have access to well water instead of municipal tap
water. One advantage with well water is that you don't need to deal with
chlorine and chloramine. On the other hand, Portsmouth Tropical Fish well water is frequently (much!)
harder than water available through local utilities. In addition, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the only way
to know its composition (GH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish KH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.) is to run tests on it yourself.
Alternatively, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are companies to which you can send water samples that
will perform a detailed analysis of its contents (for $20-100).
One potential problem with using well water is that it
frequently contains high concentrations of dissolved gases (which may be
dangerous to fish). For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish well water is frequently supersaturated with
CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which lowers the water's pH. Once the CO2 escapes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the pH will increase.
Fish shouldn't be subjected to this temporary pH fluctuation. For safety, Portsmouth Tropical Fish aerate well water thoroughly for several hours before adding it to your tank.
What Is the Nitrogen Cycle?
Like all living creatures, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish give off waste products (pee
and poo). These nitrogenous waste products break down into ammonia (NH3), Portsmouth Tropical Fish which
is highly toxic to most fishes. In nature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the volume of water per fish is
extremely high, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and waste products become diluted to low concentrations. In
aquariums, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it can take as little as a few hours for ammonia
concentrations to reach toxic levels.
How much ammonia is too much? The quick answer is: if a test
kit is able to measure it, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you've got too much (i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish it's in
a high enough concentrations to stress fish). Consider emergency action
(water changes and zeolite clay) to reduce the danger. (A more detailed discussion
of ammonia toxicity can be found later in this section.)
In aquaria-speak, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ``nitrogen cycle'' (more precisely, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the nitrification cycle) is the biological process that converts ammonia into
other, Portsmouth Tropical Fish relatively harmless nitrogen compounds. Fortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish several species of
bacteria do this conversion for us. Some species convert ammonia (NH3) to
nitrite (N02-), Portsmouth Tropical Fish while others convert nitrite to nitrate (NO3-). Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cycling
the tank refers to the process of establishing bacterial colonies in the filter
bed that convert ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate.
The desired species of nitrifying bacteria are present
everywhere (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish in the air). Therefore, Portsmouth Tropical Fish once you have an ammonia source in
your tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it's only a matter of time before the desired bacteria establish a
colony in your filter bed. The most common way to do this is to place one or
two (emphasis on one or two) hardy and inexpensive fish in your aquarium. The
fish waste contains the ammonia on which the bacteria live. Don't overfeed them! More food means more ammonia! Some suggested
species include: common goldfish (for cold water tanks), Portsmouth Tropical Fish zebra danios and barbs
for warmer tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and damselfishes in marine systems. Note: Do not use
``toughies'' or other feeder fishes. Although cheap, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they are extremely unhealthy
and using them may introduce unwanted diseases to your tank.
During the cycling process, Portsmouth Tropical Fish ammonia levels will go up and
then suddenly plummet as the nitrite-forming bacteria take hold. Because
nitrate-forming bacteria don't even begin to appear until nitrite is present in
significant quantities, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrite levels skyrocket (as the built-up ammonia is
converted), Portsmouth Tropical Fish continuing to rise as the continually-produced ammonia is converted
to nitrite. Once the nitrate-forming bacteria take hold, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrite levels fall, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrate levels rise, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the tank is fully cycled.
Your tank is fully cycled once nitrates are being produced
(and ammonia and nitrite levels are zero). To determine when the cycle has
completed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish buy appropriate test kits (see the TEST KIT section) and measure the
levels yourself, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or bring water samples to your fish store and let them perform
the test for you (perhaps for a small fee). The cycling process normally takes
anywhere from 2-6 weeks. At temperatures below 70F, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it takes even longer to cycle
a tank. In comparison to other types of bacteria, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrifying bacteria grow
slowly. Under optimal conditions, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it takes fully 15 hours for a colony to
double in size!
It is sometimes possible to speed up the cycling time. Some
common procedures for this are detailed later in this section.
Warning: AVOID THE TEMPTATION TO GET MORE FISH UNTIL AFTER
YOUR TANK HAS FULLY CYCLED! More fish means more ammonia production, Portsmouth Tropical Fish increasing
the stress on all fish and the likelihood of fish deaths. Once ammonia levels reach
highly stressful or toxic levels, Portsmouth Tropical Fish your tank has succumbed to ``New Tank
Syndrome''; the tank has not yet fully cycled, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the accumulating ammonia has
concentrations lethal to your fish.
How Much Ammonia Is Too Much?
In an established tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish ammonia should be undetectable using
standard test kits available at stores. The presence of detectable levels
indicates that your bio filter is not working adequately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish either because your
tank has not yet cycled, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or the filter is not functioning adequately (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish too
small for fish load, Portsmouth Tropical Fish clogged, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.) It is imperative that you address the
problem (filter) in addition to the symptoms (high ammonia levels).
The exact concentration at which ammonia becomes toxic to
fish varies among species; some are more tolerant than others. In addition, Portsmouth Tropical Fish other factors like water temperature and chemistry play a significant role. For
example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish ammonia (NH3) continually changes to ammonium (NH4+) and vice versa, Portsmouth Tropical Fish with the relative concentrations of each depending on the water's temperature
and pH. Ammonia is extremely toxic; ammonium is relatively harmless. At higher
temperatures and pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish more of the nitrogen is in the toxic ammonia form than at
lower pH.
Standard test kits measure total ammonia (ammonia plus
ammonium) without distinguishing between the two forms. The following chart
gives the maximum long-term level of ammonia-N in mg/L (ppm) that can be
considered safe at a given temperature and pH. Again, Portsmouth Tropical Fish note that a tank with an
established biological filter will have no detectable ammonia; this chart is
provided only for emergency purposes. If your levels approach or exceed the
levels shown, Portsmouth Tropical Fish take emergency action IMMEDIATELY.
Water Temperature
pH 20C (68F) 25C (77F)
_________________________________
6.5 15.4 11.1
7.0 5.0 3.6
7.5 1.6 1.2
8.0 0.5 0.4
8.5 0.2 0.1
Minimizing Fish Stress During
Initial Cycling
Should ammonia levels become high during the cycling
process, Portsmouth Tropical Fish corrective measures will need to be taken to prevent fish deaths. Most
likely, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will simply perform a sequence of partial water changes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish thereby
diluting ammonia to safer concentrations.
As a final caution, Portsmouth Tropical Fish several commercial products (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Amquel'' or ``Ammo-Lock'') safely neutralize ammonia's toxicity. Amquel does
not remove the ammonia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it simply neutralizes its
toxicity. Biological filtration is still needed to convert the (neutralized)
ammonia to nitrite and nitrate. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish adding Amquel causes the ammonia produced
by the fish to be neutralized instantly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish yet still allows the nitrogen cycle to
proceed. Using Amquel during the cycling phase has one significant drawback, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however. Amquel (and similar products) may cause ammonia test kits to give
false readings, Portsmouth Tropical Fish making it difficult to determine exactly when cycling has
completed. See the TEST KIT SECTION for details.
It is also possible to cycle a tank without ever adding
fish. The role fish provide in the cycling process is simply their steady
production of ammonia; the same effect can be achieved by adding chemical forms
of ammonia manually (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish ammonium chloride). However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is a bit more
complicated than using fish because the water chemistry needs to be monitored
more closely in order to add the proper amount of ammonia on a day-to-day
basis.
(For the Impatient)
The nitrogen cycle can be sped up or ``jump started'' in a
number of ways. Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they require access to an established tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which a beginning aquarist may not have available. The basic idea is to find an
established tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish take some of the bacteria out of it and place them in the new
tank.
Most filters have some sort of foam block or floss insert on
which nitrifying bacteria attach. Borrowing all or part of such an insert and
placing it in the new tank's filter gets things going more quickly.
If the established tank uses an undergravel filter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrifying bacteria will be attached to the gravel. Take some of the gravel (a
cup or more) and hang it in a mesh bag in your filter (if you can), Portsmouth Tropical Fish or lay it
over the top of the gravel in the new tank (if it has an UGF).
If you have a box, Portsmouth Tropical Fish sponge or corner filter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish simply connect
it to an established aquarium and let it run for a week or so. Bacteria in the
water will establish a bed in the new filter. After a week, Portsmouth Tropical Fish move the now
``seasoned'' filter to the new tank.
More recently, Portsmouth Tropical Fish products containing colonies of nitrifying
bacteria have become available at pet shops (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Fritz'', Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Bio-zyme'', Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Cycle''). In theory, Portsmouth Tropical Fish adding the bacteria jump-starts the colonization process
as above. Net experience with such products has been mixed; some folks report
success, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while others report they don't work at all. In principle, Portsmouth Tropical Fish such
products should work well. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrifying bacteria cannot live
indefinitely without oxygen and food. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the effectiveness of a product
depends on its freshness and can be adversely effected
by poor handling (e.g., Portsmouth Tropical Fish overheating). Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish these products don't come
with a freshness date, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so there is no way to know how old they are.
Some (not many) aquarium stores will provide aquarium buyers
with a cup of gravel from an established tank. A word of caution is appropriate
here. Due to the nature of the business, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tanks in stores are very likely to
contain unwanted pathogens (bacteria, Portsmouth Tropical Fish parasites, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.); you don't want to add
them to an established tank. For someone setting up their very first tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however, Portsmouth Tropical Fish all fish will probably be purchased from the same store, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so the danger
is relatively small, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as the newly purchased fish will have been exposed to the
same pathogens. If possible, Portsmouth Tropical Fish seed a filter with bacteria from a non-store tank.
Of course, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are many variations on the above that work.
However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is a bit difficult to give an exact recipe that is guaranteed to
work. It is advisable to take a conservative approach and not add fish too
quickly. In addition, Portsmouth Tropical Fish testing the water to be sure nitrates are being produced
eliminates the guesswork of determining when your tank has cycled.
What You Need to Know About Water Chemistry, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and Why
Water in nature is rarely pure in the ``distilled water''
sense; it contains dissolved salts, Portsmouth Tropical Fish buffers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc., Portsmouth Tropical Fish with exact
concentrations dependent on local conditions. Fish (and plants) have evolved
over millions of years to the specific water conditions in their native
habitats and may be unable to survive in significantly different environments.
Beginners (especially the lazy) should take the easy
approach of selecting fish whose needs match the qualities of their normal tap
water. Alternatively, Portsmouth Tropical Fish an advanced (and energetic!) aquarist can change the
water characteristics to match the fish's needs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though doing so is almost
always more difficult than first appears. In either case, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you need to know
enough about water chemistry to ensure that the water in your tank has the
right properties for the fish you are keeping.
Water has four measurable properties that are commonly used
to characterize its chemistry. They are pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish buffering capacity, Portsmouth Tropical Fish general
hardness and salinity. In addition, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are several nutrients and trace
elements.
pH
pH refers to water being either an
acid, Portsmouth Tropical Fish base, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or neither (neutral). A pH of 7 is said to be neutral, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a pH below 7
is ``acidic'' and a pH above 7 is ``basic'' or ``alkaline''. Like the Richter
scale used to measure earthquakes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the pH scale is logarithmic. A pH of 5.5 is
10 times more acidic than water at a pH of 6.5. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish changing the pH by a
small amount (suddenly) is more of a chemical change (and more stressful to
fish!) than might first appear.
To a fishkeeper, Portsmouth Tropical Fish two aspects of pH are important. First, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rapid changes in pH are stressful to fish and should be avoided. Changing the
pH by more than .3 units per day is known to stress fish. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you want the pH
of your tank to remain constant and stable over the long haul. Second, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish
have adapted to thrive in a (sometimes narrow) pH range. You want to be sure
that your tank's pH matches the specific requirements of the fish you are
keeping.
Most fish can adjust to a pH somewhat outside of their
optimal range. If your water's pH is naturally within the range of 6.5 to 7.5, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will be able to keep most species of fish without any problems. If your pH
lies within this range, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there is probably no need to adjust it upward or
downward.
Buffering capacity refers to water's ability to keep the pH stable
as acids or bases are added. pH and buffering capacity
are intertwined with one another; although one might think that adding equal
volumes of an acid and neutral water would result in a pH halfway in between, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this rarely happens in practice. If the water has sufficient buffering
capacity, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the buffering capacity can absorb and neutralize the added acid
without significantly changing the pH. Conceptually, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a buffer acts somewhat
like a large sponge. As more acid is added, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ``sponge'' absorbs the acid
without changing the pH much. The ``sponge's'' capacity is limited however;
once the buffering capacity is used up, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the pH changes more rapidly as acids
are added.
Buffering has both positive and negative consequences. On
the plus side, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the nitrogen cycle produces nitric acid (nitrate). Without
buffering, Portsmouth Tropical Fish your tank's pH would drop over time (a bad thing). With sufficient
buffering, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the pH stays stable (a good thing). On the negative side, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hard tap
water often almost always has a large buffering capacity. If the pH of the
water is too high for your fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the buffering capacity makes it difficult to
lower the pH to a more appropriate value. Naive attempts to change the pH of
water usually fail because buffering effects are ignored.
In freshwater aquariums, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most of water's buffering capacity
is due to carbonates and bicarbonates. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the terms ``carbonate hardness''
(KH), Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``alkalinity'' and ``buffering capacity'' are used interchangeably.
Although technically not the same things, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they are equivalent in practice in
the context of fishkeeping. Note: the term ``alkalinity'' should not be
confused with the term ``alkaline''. Alkalinity refers to buffering, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while
alkaline refers to a solution that is a base (i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish pH > 7).
How much buffering does your tank need? Most aquarium
buffering capacity test kits actually measure KH. The larger the KH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the more
resistant to pH changes your water will be. A tank's KH should be high enough
to prevent large pH swings in your tank over time. If your KH is below roughly
4.5 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should pay special attention to your
tank's pH (e.g, Portsmouth Tropical Fish test weekly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish until you get a feel for how stable the pH is).
This is ESPECIALLY important if you neglect to do frequent partial water
changes. In particular, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the nitrogen cycle creates a tendency for an
established tank's pH to decrease over time. The exact amount of pH change
depends on the quantity and rate of nitrates produced, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as well as the KH. If
your pH drops more than roughly two tenths of a point over a month, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should
consider increasing the KH or performing partial water changes more frequently.
KH doesn't affect fish directly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so there is no need to match fish species to a
particular KH.
Note: it is not a good idea to use distilled water in your
tank. By definition, Portsmouth Tropical Fish distilled water has essentially no KH. That means that
adding even a little bit of acid will change the pH significantly (stressing
fish). Because of its instability, Portsmouth Tropical Fish distilled (or any essentially pure water) is
never used directly. Tap water or other salts must first be added to it in
order to increase its GH and KH.
General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration
of magnesium and calcium ions. When fish are said to prefer ``soft'' or
``hard'' water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is GH (not KH) that is being referred to.
Note: GH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish KH and pH form the Bermuda's
Triangle of water chemistry. Although the three properties are distinct, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they
all interact with each other to varying degrees, Portsmouth Tropical Fish making it difficult to adjust
one without impacting the other. That is one reason why beginning aquarists are
advised NOT to tamper with these parameters unless absolutely necessary. As an
example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``hard'' water frequently often comes from limestone aquifers.
Limestone contains calcium carbonate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which when dissolved in water increases
both the GH (from calcium) and KH (from carbonate) components. Increasing the
KH component also usually increases pH as well. Conceptually, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the KH acts as a ``sponge''
absorbing the acid present in the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish raising the water's pH.
Water hardness follows the following guidelines. The unit dH means ``degree hardness'', Portsmouth Tropical Fish while ppm means ``parts per
million'', Portsmouth Tropical Fish which is roughly equivalent to mg/L in water. 1 unit dH equals 17.8 ppm CaCO3. Most test kits give the hardness
in units of CaCO3; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO3 in
water but does not mean it actually came from CaCO3.
General
Hardness
0 - 4 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 0 -
70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 70 -
140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 320 - 530 ppm : hard
higher : liquid rock (Lake Malawi and Los Angeles, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CA)
Salinity refers to the total amount of dissolved substances.
Salinity measurements count both GH and KH components as well as such other
substances as sodium. Knowing water's salinity becomes important in salt water
aquariums. In freshwater tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish knowing pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish GH and KH suffices.
Salinity is usually expressed in terms of its specific
gravity, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the ratio of a solution's weight to weight of an equal volume of
distilled water. Because water expands when heated (changing its density), Portsmouth
