General
Questions
``What
do you absolutely need to grow plants?''
``How
do I disinfect my plants?''
``Do
I leave my new plants in the pot?''
``How
much light do I need''
``Can
I grow plants with my single strip light?''
``What's
MH? Is it better than fluorescent?''
``How
long do I leave the light on each day?''
``Is
CO2 injection really necessary?''
``How
much CO2 is normal?''
``Can
I just dump carbonated water into my tank?''
``How
do I know if I need fertilizer?''
``What
should I put in my substrate?''
``Do
I need to have substrate heating?''
LIGHT
CO2
NUTRIENTS
TRACE
ELEMENTS
OTHER
INFORMATION
Blacklisted
Plants
To
set up a quarantine or hospital tank:
Dropsy
Swim
bladder disorders
Algae
Types
Brown
algae
Film
algae
Hair
algae
Thread
algae
Staghorn
algae
Prophylactics
for Algae
Algae
Eaters
Black
mollies
``Plecostomus''
sp.
Siamese
Algae Eater
Farlowella
Water
Hardness
Ramshorn
Snail
Pond
Snails
Good
First Fish
Some
Cyprinids
Danios
Barbs
Corydoras
Catfish
Rainbowfish
Loaches
Dwarf
Plecos
Tetras
Cichlids
Anabantids
Livebearers
Bad
First Fish
Goldfish
Piranhas
Knife
Fishes
Glass
Catfish
Spiny
Eels
Brackish
Water Fish
Breeding
Strategies
Breeding
and Agression
Breeding
Tanks
Breeding
Requirements
Successful plant growth requires a balance of light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish trace elements, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and carbon dioxide (CO2). The light should be
provided in a spectrum the plants can absorb, Portsmouth Tropical Fish must be of great enough intensity
to keep the plant alive, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and should be consistently on 10-14 hours a day. Most
nutrients are supplied by fish waste. Some trace elements might be supplied by
your tap water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but are more consistently obtained using commercial trace
element mixtures. CO2 is supplied partly from the air and partly by your fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but can be enhanced by injecting it from an external source (for example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a
compressed bottle). If your plants have a deficiency of even one of these
factors, Portsmouth Tropical Fish their growth will be limited. (Don't panic about this; most of us
don't need optimal plant growth.) Overabundance of one factor over another may
cause problems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish such as plant malnourishment, Portsmouth Tropical Fish undue algae growth or toxic
buildup. Each ingredient will be discussed in detail in the following sections.
``My friend grows plants beautiful plants and doesn't do
high-tech stuff like CO2 or fertilizers. Is it really necessary?''
The quick answer to this is no. It is completely possible to
grow plants using basic tank equipment, Portsmouth Tropical Fish either by chance or by patiently
learning through trial-and-error. This is accomplished by slight modification
of the basic equipment and usual fishkeeping practice. High-tech gadgetry, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however, Portsmouth Tropical Fish can remove much of the guesswork by allowing you to better control
each of the four ingredients.
We should also mention that the term beautiful is a bit
subjective here; Many hobbyists achieve great success with ``easy'' plants and
no special equipment, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and this is perfectly fine. But beware comparing this to
a high-tech monger and their ability to grow a wider variety of plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish because
they're really two different categories!.
New plants may have unwanted hitchers: snails, Portsmouth Tropical Fish algae or
disease. Disinfection can help reduce their transmission into the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and can
be used to remove algae growths from established plants. Beware, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there is always a danger of going too far and damaging the plant itself. Some
popular methods:
A ten minute soak in potassium
permangenate (pale purple) works well; it is available in dilute form from
Jungle products as "Clear Water". Permangenate is particularly good
for killing bacteria and pathogens.
A 2-day soak in 1 tbsp/gallon of alum (buy it at drug
stores) is good for killing snails and their eggs.
If the plants are kept in a fish-free system for three
weeks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish parasites like ich and velvet will die without their fish hosts.
A soak in a 1:19 diluted bleach solution;
2 minutes for stem plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 3 minutes for tougher plants. Make sure to
remove all traces of bleach afterwards by rinsing with water and dechlorinator.
This method can kill your plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so use only as a last resort against hell
algae.
(See the ALGAE SECTION of the DISEASE FAQ for more
algae-prevention tips, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the SNAIL SECTION of that same FAQ for snail
prophylaxis.)
Many aquatic plants are now sold in potted rockwool. Plants
with delicate roots, Portsmouth Tropical Fish such as Cryptocoryne and Anubias, Portsmouth Tropical Fish are usually best left in
the rockwool wadding, Portsmouth Tropical Fish especially if you have to move them around in the tank.
Leaving them potted also can reduce transplant shock; otherwise you must be
patient and allow the plants time to recover in their new substrate. You can
bury the pots in your gravel to conceal them. Some folks like to cut away the
plastic pot, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and just leave the plant in the wadding so it can grow out into
the substrate.
Fish
``What kind of plants can I keep with fish X?''
``What kind of fish can I keep with plant X?''
These are essentially the same question, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though asking the
second one shows you are a serious plant person. You
need to match the habits of the fish with the plant. Big cichlids that like to
dig should not be kept in a tank with rooted plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though floating (or
ephiphytic) plants are fine. Vegetarian fish should not be kept in a tank with
plants they like to eat, Portsmouth Tropical Fish unless the plants grow faster than they destroy them!
Some algae-eating fish also turn out to be plant-eaters too. In general, Portsmouth Tropical Fish try
and learn the habits of your fish before you buy them and your plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and be
prepared to find out what works by several trials.
Some fish that can be kept with virtually any plants: small
tetras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish danios, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rasboras, Portsmouth Tropical Fish gouramis, Portsmouth Tropical Fish discus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish bettas, Portsmouth Tropical Fish angelfish (Pterophylum), Portsmouth Tropical Fish rainbowfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Corydorus catfish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish livebearers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish killifish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dwarf cichlids, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and in
general most small fish.
Lighting
The ``classic'' rule of thumb for lighting is 2-4 watts of
fluorescent light per gallon (0.5-1 watts/l) for a tank of normal depth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish less
than 24 inches (60cm). In reality, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the issue is clouded (so to speak) by the
amount of algae and other particles in the water and on the walls, Portsmouth Tropical Fish what sort of
reflector you have on the light source, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and how far away the source is from the
tank. In general, Portsmouth Tropical Fish start with the guidelines, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but be prepared to add more later.
For plants that demand medium to high light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most people
find they need at least two fluorescent bulbs of the length of normal tanks
(20-gallon (80l), Portsmouth Tropical Fish two 24 inch tubes; 55-gallon (200l), Portsmouth Tropical Fish two 48 inch tubes). More
detail can be found in the later LIGHTING section.
Yes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you can, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though you are limited to the lowest-light plants
and will get very slow growth. Some of these include Java fern, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Anubias, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Cryptocoryne species, Portsmouth Tropical Fish water sprite and Java moss. Some of these plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish notably
Cryptocorynes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish actually prefer lower light. We should also mention that some
people may have luck with plants that normally prefer higher light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but the
odds are that they will grow slowly and stunted.
``What kind of bulb do I need?''
First and foremost, Portsmouth Tropical Fish don't use incandescent lights; they
generate far too much heat and not enough light. Full-spectrum fluorescent
bulbs are ideal, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since they duplicate the spectrum of the sun. These tubes
(``Vitalite'', Portsmouth Tropical Fish ``Spectralite'') can be costly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish at $8 to $20. An inexpensive but
effective alternative are tri-phosphor daylight tubes such as the Chroma-50 or
Design-50, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which retail at $4-8; these tubes do a reasonable approximation of
sunlight. Cheaper ``plant lights'' are also good, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and may actually bring out
your fish's color better. Tri-phosphor bulbs (Triton, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Tri-lux) are slightly
more powerful, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but also more expensive than full-spectrum bulbs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and high-end
bulbs with internal reflectors (BioLume) are overpriced and unnecessary. Other
bulbs to avoid are standard cool-white tubes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and ``aquarilux'' tubes, Portsmouth Tropical Fish designed
to show off the fish and retard plant growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though some folks have had
success with a mixture of cool white and plant bulbs.
``What's T-8?''
The term T-8 refers (usually) to high efficiency fluorescent
tubes installed in most modern office buildings, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as opposed to the
"T-12" standard fluorescents. They are currently in vogue with some
aquatic plant keepers because of their relative inexpensiveness, Portsmouth Tropical Fish longer life, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and high energy savings (consider that the ballast and tubes for a 4-tube
128-watt setup can be had for under $50). They can be distinguished from their
standard counterparts by three things: 1, Portsmouth Tropical Fish diameter (which is the literal
meaning of T-8: 8/8 inch, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as opposed to T-12 = 12/8 inch), Portsmouth Tropical Fish 2,wattage
(4-foot 32-watt, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 3-foot 25-watt, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and 2-foot 17 watt), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and 3, Portsmouth Tropical Fish their markings
("FO-32", Portsmouth Tropical Fish "F32-SPX" "TL7xx", Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc., Portsmouth Tropical Fish depending on
manufacturer). T-8's use a different (but inexpensive) type of ballast, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so you
should not use them interchangably with standard fluorescents. The one trick
with T-8's is that you may need to get the tubes and ballasts from a commercial
lighting supplier (check the phone book). Tubes are available in 5000K and
6500K color balances, Portsmouth Tropical Fish ideal planted tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but they may need to be special
ordered.
One word of warning, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are some standard fluorescent
tubes that are T-8 diameter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most notably 18" and some 36" tubes.
These should not be mistaken for the above bulbs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and should be used with
normal ballasts. When in doubt, Portsmouth Tropical Fish make sure to check the wattage and
identification (3-foot 30 watt and 18-inch 15 watt bulbs are not the new kind).
Metal Halide (MH) lights are most commonly seen illuminating
football fields, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but are also used in our hobby by reefkeepers and die-hard
plant enthusiasts, Portsmouth Tropical Fish who demand very high light intensity. The fixtures cost
significantly more than fluorescent (over $200 per fixture). The bulbs last
longer and provide more efficient and brighter illumination than fluorescents
(typically 175-250 watts per bulb), Portsmouth Tropical Fish but generate an appropriately higher level
of heat as well. Some aquarists like the sun-like shadow effects generated by
MH bulbs.
``Can I use those cheap Halogen bulbs from the hardware
store?''
Do not confuse MH with the tungsten halogen lights sold in
hardware stores as utility floods or living room fixtures; Halogen lights are
basically high-wattage incandescent lights, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and generate an enormous amount of
heat and are very inefficient in their light output. Some also find the
spectrum too yellowish.
``How do I add another light to my tank?''
If you can fit a second tube in your existing hood, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many
stores sell upgrade kits to add the second fixture. Otherwise, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you might be
able to add a second hood to the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or you can find a replacement two-bulb
hood (mail-order places sell them). Another option for 4-foot (130cm) long
tanks is to buy a ``shoplight'' fixture and lay it across the top over the
glass. You can also build your own hood or canopy and mount the shoplight or
fixture inside. It's possible to omit the fixture by purchasing special end
caps and clips for the tubes. These are available, Portsmouth Tropical Fish with ballasts, Portsmouth Tropical Fish from aquarium
stores and are commonly used by marine aquarists.
Plants want a definite daily light and dark cycle each day;
10-14 hours is fine; twelve hours is the duration on the equator, Portsmouth Tropical Fish where many
tropical plants are found. You should buy a timer ($5-10) to automatically turn
the lights on and off for you, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since the plants (and fish) prefer a regular
cycle to an erratic one. If the plants need more light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should not extend
the light period, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as that will only help the algae. Rather, Portsmouth Tropical Fish install another
fixture and increase the intensity of light.
Speaking of timers, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many fluorescent fixtures don't
self-start, Portsmouth Tropical Fish i.e. you have to hold in a button for a few seconds to turn it on.
You can quickly convert any fixture into a ``self-starting'' one with a few new
components from a hardware store or sold as a kit from mail-order houses. See
the later LIGHTING section for a diagram.
``How often do I change the bulb?''
Most fluorescent bulbs lose a major portion of their
intensity after six months, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so they should be replaced every 6-12 months (T-8's
can be kept longer). If that seems expensive to you and you can live with the
reduced light level, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you can cheat and wait until the bulbs burn out after two
years (that is, Portsmouth Tropical Fish according to TAG editor Neil Frank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish what ``many experienced
plant enthusiasts'' do). It is best to stagger the replacement on multi-bulb
tanks in order to avoid dramatic intensity changes.
``Won't increased light fill my tank with algae?''
If you are adding that second light to your tank for the
first time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should be prepared for this. Increased light is welcomed by
both algae and plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so the plants must out-compete the algae. You can help
tip the balance in the plants' favor by maintaining a low fish population, Portsmouth Tropical Fish keeping algae eaters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and frequent water changes (see the ALGAE SECTION of the
DISEASE FAQ).
Carbon Dioxide (CO2)
CO2 injection is not required to grow plants. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish most
people who have used it feel that, Portsmouth Tropical Fish aside from high-intensity lighting, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2 is
the most important step to getting excellent growth. In fact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as light
intensity is increased, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants will require more nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish including carbon
which is derived from CO2. In conjunction with carbonate buffers (see the WATER
CHEMISTRY section of the BEGINNER FAQ), Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2 injection will buffer your water to
a neutral or low pH. Lower pH will help plants get access to certain nutrients.
Some also report CO2 injection keeps algae down.
``Isn't CO2 expensive?''
The startup cost can be a bit steep; expect to pay around
$500 for a fully-automated Dupla system, Portsmouth Tropical Fish $350 for a manual injector. If you do
it yourself using welding or bar supplies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you can drop the price to $100-$200
for a tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish regulator, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and needle valve. After your initial investment, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2
refills (try fire extinguisher or beverage service outlets) are cheap: $5-10 a
year for a 5 lb cylinder.
If this is still too much, Portsmouth Tropical Fish try the ultra-cheap Yeast Method
of brewing CO2 (see below).
The optimum dissolved CO2 level in an aquarium is 15-20 ppm.
Some references say that levels above 25ppm poison your fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but general
experience is that this doesn't happen. The amount found in the water from
atmospheric concentrations varies by elevation and temperature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but is less
than 1ppm.
``How does the compressed gas method work?''
A compressed gas cylinder supplies CO2 at a high pressure of
800-1200 PSI. This is dropped to 5-20 PSI through a regulator, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and reduced to a
few bubbles per second by a fine-control ``needle valve''. This slow bubbling
must be dissolved in your aquarium's water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish through either a gas reactor (which
lets water and gas mix in a chamber much like a trickle filter), Portsmouth Tropical Fish an inverted
jar (which just lets the gas diffuse into the water slowly), Portsmouth Tropical Fish or by injecting
the bubbles into the intake of a power or canister filter (the impeller
``chops'' them up into smaller bubbles, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many of which dissolve). The reactor is
the most efficient method, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while the power filter injection is the easiest to
try.
It is important to have control over the rate of injection, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as too much CO2 can kill your fish. Expensive ``automatic'' systems use an
electronic pH meter to regulate the amount of CO2 in the water by shutting off
the gas when the pH drops too low. ``Manual'' systems require you to start with
very low injection and gradually increase over several days, Portsmouth Tropical Fish all the time
carefully monitoring pH drops and CO2 bubble rate in order to find the correct
needle valve setting.
Construction and operational details can be found in the
later CO2 SECTION.
``How does the yeast method work?''
CO2 is generated by fermentation of sugars in a bottle (just
like when brewing beer!) and then injected into the tank using the same methods
described above. The parts are very cheap and easier to set up than the
compressed tank. The main drawback is that CO2 generation rate can be erratic, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and will quit on you if you do not change the solution (once every two weeks or
so) or get the mixture right. The CO2 level generated is lower than that of
compressed gas tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but is still enough to help plant growth. Initially
passed off as ``useless'' by much of the aquarium literature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this technique
has enjoyed a certain vogue in the last few years as a good way to try CO2
without draining your wallet.
Here is one quick construction method: Tap the cap of a
2-liter plastic soft drink bottle (the author uses drip-irrigation taps, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which
can be obtained cheaply at local hardware stores; if you get leaks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish try sealing
it with ``Amazing Goop'' or ``Shoe Goo'') so that an airline tube can feed the
gas into your tank. Half fill the bottle with water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and add 1/2 tsp yeast and
1/2 cup (or more) sugar. The solution will last about two weeks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish after which
you can throw it out and start a new batch. Beware of water siphoning back from
your tank... put a check valve in-line with the airline tube.
No! Plants need a slow continuous source of CO2. If you dump
carbonated water in, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it will spike the pH (stressing your fish), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the CO2
will just dissipate back into the air within a few hours.
``Does injecting CO2 reduce the oxygen content?''
No. The level of dissolved CO2 and oxygen are actually
independent of each other; high levels of both can exist at the same time. Furthermore, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if you have a set of healthy plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they will be saturating the water with
oxygen on their own. The problem is that many of the techniques used to
increase oxygen content (airstones, Portsmouth Tropical Fish trickle filters, Portsmouth Tropical Fish keeping the water moving
at the surface) also cause CO2 to diffuse out of the aquarium; i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish if you
turn off your airstone in order to keep the CO2 in, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you might also reduce your
oxygen content. The best solution is to keep the water moving at the surface of
the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but inject CO2 faster than it can escape, Portsmouth Tropical Fish giving you high levels of
both CO2 and oxygen.
Nutrients and Fertilizer
``Is fish food enough to fertilize my plants?''
Fish food usually provides enough of the three
macronutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrogen, Portsmouth Tropical Fish phosphate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and potassium (N-P-K), Portsmouth Tropical Fish to keep your plants
healthy. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the trace elements such as iron are not all supplied in a
form that the plants can use. Some trace elements may be in your tap water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so
frequent water changes will replenish them. This may provide enough for some
plant growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but if you want the best growth you should consider adding a
trace element fertilizer.
``Can I use normal plant fertilizer?''
Normal land plant fertilizer contains high amounts of N-P-K
which is already supplied by the fish food. Adding more will cause algae outbreaks
and possible fish stress. You may be able to find a trace-element-only
fertilizer at better garden shops, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or even mix your own. Aquarium-specific
mixes by Dupla (available world-wide) and Dennerle (not available yet in the U.S.) are
expensive, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but are proven to work very well. Beware some other brands that
supply N-P-K (check the label for ingredients; some do not list their contents
for this exact reason.) Fertilizer tabs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or even 1/4 inch pieces of ``plant
sticks'' (without sulfates) have been successfully used if placed deeply in the
substrate and used sparingly.
Lack of fertilizer shows up in your
plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as sickly transparent or yellow leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as holes in the leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and as
reduction in plant growth. Old leaves die off more quickly than they are
supposed to, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and the new leaves are small and stunted. Another symptom is the
plants grow very well for a month or so after you buy them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but then stop as
their internal supply of trace elements and macro nutrients run out. You also
need to add fertilizer if you have high levels of CO2 and lighting, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but no
plant growth.
``How do I know which nutrient is limiting plant growth?''
This is always difficult to answer without actually trying
it yourself. If you have slow growth and it picks up shortly after you change
your water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish then your water is probably supplying some trace elements which get
depleted later; consider adding a trace element mix or changing your water more
often. If you have slow growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but it picks up after adding trace element mix, Portsmouth Tropical Fish problem solved! If you have slow growth but it picks up after feeding your fish
a little bit more, Portsmouth Tropical Fish problem solved! But watch out that you don't increase things
too drastically, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or you'll get algae blooms.
``How much is too much?''
If you like keeping zillions of test kits, Portsmouth Tropical Fish then you can
check some trace element levels with them (Dupla recommends an iron level of
0.1ppm). Ammonia and nitrate test kits will tell you if you are overfeeding.
Alternatively, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you need to watch your tank. Too much fertilizer and fish food
may show up as excessive algae growth.
``What's PMDD? How do I make it?''
PMDD (or Poor Man's Dosing Drops) is a do-it-yourself
recipe, Portsmouth Tropical Fish put together by Kevin Conlin and Paul Sears as part of their
experiments to control algae. Much discussion an
experimentation with the recipe is occuring on the Aquatic Plants E-mail
List, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so you are likely to get the most current info there. Semi-regular
updates are kept on the WWW at THE KRIB. Future updates of this FAQ may include
sources and recipes when things settle. :)
The Substrate
Gravel or sand is a good start! Size is an issue; with small
grains the roots might not be able to get a good hold and the sand tends to
compact, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while larger gravel has a tendency to collect pockets of rotting
detritus. Most believe the ideal size is 2-3mm (#8) gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish while a few others
like 1-2mm coarse sand (though it may be harder to find). Malaysian trumpet
snails (see the ALGAE SECTION of the DISEASE FAQ) will burrow into the
substrate and keep it aerated. The bottom 1/3 of the gravel can be supplemented
with a fertilizer, Portsmouth Tropical Fish of which popular choices are peat (softens water), Portsmouth Tropical Fish laterite
(a clay containing iron, Portsmouth Tropical Fish usually used with undergravel heating systems), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
soil. One word of warning: if you use an undergravel filter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it may suck your
fertilizer back into the tank instead of keeping it with the bottom of the
gravel. Dupla makes special laterite balls which can be used in an UGF (though
expensive).
``How deep a substrate?''
In general, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it's good to match the substrate with the types
of plant (or types of roots). For instance big Amazon Sword plants like deep
gravel of 4 inches (10cm), Portsmouth Tropical Fish but Lilaeopsis grass can do fine with an inch or
less. This can be helped by terracing the back of your tank to be deeper and
planting your deep-rooted plants there. You also can't go wrong with a uniform
3 inches (7cm) of gravel all-around.
``Can you grow plants with an undergravel filter (UGF)?''
Oh my yes! Make sure you have enough gravel for the plants
to be happily rooted. It should also work best with a very slow flow rate.
Pluses of UGF may be an increased circulation to the roots. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you will
probably get roots growing in the plates, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it will be harder to vacuum everything, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and will be a major pain to pull and replant. Many feel so strongly that you
shouldn't grow plants with an UGF that it has become a bit of a religious issue
on Usenet. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this does not mean it is not possible... like most
religious issues, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is something for which you must
make your own decision. :)
Heating
``What temperature do I keep a planted tank?''
This varies from plant-to-plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but you can keep most
aquatic plants from 72-80F (22-27C). For warm-water discus tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish check a plant
book for species that thrive in these special conditions.
The exact benefits of substrate heating have not been proven
yet, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but it is believed they provide long-term stability to a tank. If you are
a beginner, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it's hardly worth messing with before mastering the basics
(fertilization, Portsmouth Tropical Fish lighting, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc). If, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you are a gadget freak or love to
spend money, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you may get a sense of pride from installing a cable heating
system. (Some believe that a very slow UGF can provide the same benefits.)
Long Term Problems
This list is by no means exhaustive! Please feel free to
suggest more long-term problems that can be addressed here.
``The leaves turned yellow and fell off.''
``The leaves got holes & fell off''
Might be a trace-element deficiency, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or in the latter case, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fish and plants eating them.
``It grew for a while & then died/still grows, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but
slower.''
This is by far the most common problem beginners
experience, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and has several different causes.
Plants can store some nutrients and trace elements, Portsmouth Tropical Fish using
them later. When they come from the greenhouse, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they are fully stocked. But
after a month or more, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if you do not supply them with a balance of nutrients
they take what's missing from their stock. When the stock's gone, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the plant
dies.
Most potted plants are grown emersed (hydroponically) in
greenhouses, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and are used to growing in very high light (i.e. filtered
sunlight) and with high levels of nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and must acclimate to aquarium
conditions. First, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they'll lose the old leaves which were growing out of the
water and produce new leaves that have a different shape and firmness.
Secondly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as they acclimate to the lower light and nutrient levels their growth
rate will temporarily slow down.
While potted plants ship well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this may not be true for
non-potted plants. They may have been stressed by passing through many hands
from grower or collector to wholesaler to retailer, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so they may not be in
optimum condition when you acquire them. The non-potted plants were most likely
grown underwater, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but also outdoors under filtered sunlight, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so they also must
acclimate to the aquarium conditions.
The plant might not be a true aquatic plant. Many stores
pass off land plants as aquatics (see our BLACKLIST). These plants can manage
to stay alive for a month or more, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but eventually succumb.
Some plants go into hibernation. Aponogeton bulbs will lose
all their leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish at which point they should be removed from the tank and kept
in cold water for a few months. Then they can be replanted and will send out
new leaves.
Cryptocorynes will ``melt'' all their leaves on a change in
water chemistry. Don't despair, Portsmouth Tropical Fish eventually they will
send out new leaves.
``My ... grows great but everything else dies''
Some plants are hardier than others, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and will grow in lower
light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or worse water conditions than others. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some plants will
actually out-compete others for the available nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and some plants will
not do well in the presence of other species; try moving the other plants into
a different tank if you can.
``My ... is covered with algae!''
Please read the ALGAE SECTION of the DISEASE FAQ for details
on specific algaes and remedies. But to summarize, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you can keep algae-eating
fish to munch on it, Portsmouth Tropical Fish starve it for nutrients by adding floating or fast-growing
plants that consume nutrients faster than the algae, Portsmouth Tropical Fish harvest some plants and remove
dying leaves often to take nutrients out of the tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish reduce feeding (or
increase water changes if you must overfeed), Portsmouth Tropical Fish reduce the number of light hours
per day, Portsmouth Tropical Fish use root fertilization instead of liquid leaf fertilization, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or
physically remove it from the tank. There are also antibiotics for blue-green
algae and other algicides, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but the latter can kill your plants as well; use
with caution!
Plants need certain things to grow: light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nutrients
and trace elements. This should be no surprise. What is generally not known is
that plants need these things in fixed proportions (and unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the
proportions vary with each type of plant). For example, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if you have plenty of
light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nutrients and most trace elements but not enough of one specific
trace element for a plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the trace element in short supply will determine how
well that plant grows even though other plants do fine. This explains why some
plants are "easier" than others - their needs are typically supplied
by tap water or other incidental sources. If the plants aren't able to utilize
all the nutrients due to a shortage of one or more specific elements, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the
"excess" nutrients and light energy will be wasted or be used by
algae.
In general, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there is no information available that says
"this plant needs this much light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nutrients and trace
elements". Aquarists can only determine "what works for me" by
tedious trial and error. Aquarists who follow the Dupla "Optimum
Aquarium" regimen try to ensure that all the requirements of all the plants
are met, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but this leads to expensive and complex systems.
Light is very important for photosynthesis since it supplies
the energy required to drive the chemical reactions
involved. The plants use light energy primarily in the blue and red spectrum
but an aquarium will look better to people if full spectrum lighting is used.
Light intensity and spectrum are more important than
duration. You can't make up for dimmer bulbs by leaving them on longer. 10-12
hours per day is usually sufficient. You need about 1.5 to 3 watts per gallon, Portsmouth Tropical Fish with deeper tanks requiring more intensity.
It is important to balance light intensity with other
nutrients. Intense lighting will be wasted if not enough CO2 and nutrients are
available to support the needs for photosynthesis.
This is very important to plant growth. Without sufficient
quantities of dissolved CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish photosynthesis cannot take place. Most tanks will
have some CO2 due to fish respiration but this is usually not enough to get
"lush" growth. Some plants do not need much CO2 and some plants like
Cryptocorynes actually seem to do worse with higher levels of CO2.
Typical levels of CO2 in a non-CO2-injected aquarium are in
the range of 1-3 ppm. Most plants will flourish with levels of 10-20 ppm but
this requires some type of CO2 injection. With lower levels of CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the plants
will not be able to utilize high levels of light and nutrients and the extra
light and nutrients will be used by algae.
Beyond the "building blocks of life" provided by
water and CO2 (oxygen, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hydrogen and carbon), Portsmouth Tropical Fish two other important nutrients are
required: nitrogen and potassium. Nitrogen is usually available in sufficient
quantities from fish waste in the form of ammonium (NH4+). Most plants will
prefer ammonium but some will use the end product of the nitrification cycle, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrate (NO3-). Ammonium is the preferred source since it takes less energy to
use that form of nitrogen. A good test for ammonium levels is to monitor
nitrates. If the nitrates are 0 ppm, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you know that all the nitrogen is being
used. This may indicate that some plants are starving for nitrogen. It also
might indicate that a perfect balance has been achieved, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but that is unlikely.
Potassium (K+) is also usually available from fish food.
Unfortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish potassium is difficult to measure in the water. If there are
enough nitrates, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there is usually enough potassium. Some fertilizers contain
additional potassium and can be used to be on the safe side.
Trace elements are those things required in very small quantities
yet are still vital to plant growth. These are taken in by the plant in ion
form. The more important trace elements are sulfur (SO4--), Portsmouth Tropical Fish calcium (Ca++), Portsmouth Tropical Fish phosphorus (HPO4--/H2PO4-), Portsmouth Tropical Fish magnesium (Mg++) and iron
(Fe++).
Sulfur, Portsmouth Tropical Fish calcium and magnesium are usually found in tap
water. If the water has too little general hardness (< 3 degrees dH), Portsmouth Tropical Fish calcium and/or magnesium may be in short supply. This
can be remedied by adding calcium and magnesium sulfate in small quantities.
Phosphorus can be measured in the water and should be
present in quantities less than 0.2 ppm of phosphate. If the nitrates are OK, Portsmouth Tropical Fish phosphorus levels are usually also OK.
Iron may be present in tap water in the correct ionic state
(Fe++) but will quickly oxidize to a form unusable by plants. To prevent this, Portsmouth Tropical Fish chelated iron mixtures can be used. The chelator prevents the iron from
oxidizing and makes it easy for the plants to assimilate. The iron
concentration should be less than 0.2 ppm.
Other trace elements are needed in extremely small
quantities and can usually be provided in fish food or specialized trace
element formulations. Note that some of these elements are toxic in anything
but trace amounts so the addition of trace elements should be done very
carefully.
Some plants can concentrate carbon, Portsmouth Tropical Fish potassium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish nitrogen, Portsmouth Tropical Fish phosphorus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish iron or the lesser trace elements and store it for later use. This
means that plants may do well for a while, Portsmouth Tropical Fish using stored nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and then
mysteriously wither if they can't replenish their supply. This also means that
some plants may "out-compete" others for required nutrients, Portsmouth Tropical Fish preventing the other plants from doing well.
Regular water changes are an important part of keeping a
planted aquarium healthy since many of the nutrients and trace elements are in
tap water. Changing 25 percent every two weeks is recommended.
The substrate can play a major role in the availability of
nutrients. Nutrients can be put in the substrate when an aquarium is setup by
mixing laterite (tropical clay), Portsmouth Tropical Fish potting soil, Portsmouth Tropical Fish peat moss or commercial
equivalents into the lower layer of gravel. These additives will release some
necessary elements and provide chelating sites so that the correct ionic states
are maintained. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if nutrients aren't replaced, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the substrate will
eventually be exhausted and the plants will begin to do poorly.
If laterite or peat is used in the substrate and a very slow
flow of water can be forced through the substrate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish water-born nutrients will be
chelated by the laterite or peat. This will provide a continuous source of
nutrients in the substrate. Substrate heating coils are recommended for this
since they can provide slow convection currents. They are expensive, Portsmouth Tropical Fish however.
The following table is based on data from the Feb, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 1988
"Today's Aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the International Magazine of the Optimum
Aquarium", Portsmouth Tropical Fish ("Aquarium Heute" in German), Portsmouth Tropical Fish published by
Aquadocumenta Verlag GmbH.
Average nutrient
content of plants and aquarium water
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Symbol
Nutrient Plant Water
Absorbed as Concen|
|
mg/kg
mg/l Factor|
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| O Oxygen 48,000 880,000
H2O 0.02 |
| Abundantly
available in the water |
|
|
| C Carbon 36,000 Varies
CO2(HCO3-)
1000 |
| Absent if no CO2
injection
|
|
|
| H
Hydrogen 6,000 110,000
H2O 0.02 |
| Abundantly available
in the water
|
|
|
| K
Potassium 3,600 5
K+ 1000 |
| Sufficient with
good feeding, Portsmouth Tropical Fish otherwise fertilizing
|
| |
| N
Nitrogen 3,200 5
NH4+/NO3- 1000 |
| Too much nitrate
with good fish feeding
|
|
|
| S Sulphur 660 15
SO4-- 50 |
| Source: fish food
and mains water
|
|
|
| Ca Calcium 650 90
Ca++ 10 |
| Absent in soft
water
|
|
|
| P
Phosphorus 460 0.1
HPO4--/H2PO4- 1000 |
| Too many
phosphates with good fish feeding |
|
|
| Mg
Magnesium 210 18
Mg++ 10 |
| Absent in soft
water
|
|
|
| Fe Iron 15 0
Fe++/Fe+++ 1000 |
| Absent under good
light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish unless fertilized
|
|
|
| Other Trace
elements 10 0
Ions 1000 |
| Sufficient with
good feeding, Portsmouth Tropical Fish otherwise fertilizer
|
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Notes: "mg/kg" and "mg/l" are roughly
parts per million or "ppm"
"Concen Factor" is how much plants can store
beyond their needs for growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants can store 1000 times more iron than
they need.
The information on this page is collected from my own
firsthand knowledge, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the plant list in the previous FAQ (author unknown), Portsmouth Tropical Fish TAG
(further info indicated as volume:number), Portsmouth Tropical Fish Aquarium
Plants Manual by Scheurmann (1993), Portsmouth Tropical Fish various aquarium society bulletins, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and old
articles on the Krib. Contributions by Elaine Thompson, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Len
Trigg, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Eric S. Deese, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Shaji Bhaskar, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and Peter Konshak.
Contents:
Explanation of Symbols
Stem Plants
Rosette Plants
Ferns
Blacklisted Plants
These plants are so-called ``blacklisted'' because though
they are sold under the guise of being true aquatic plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they are actually
land or emersed plants. Typically what happens is you buy one of these, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it
lives for a month, Portsmouth Tropical Fish then dies. Don't buy them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish unless you are setting up a
paludarium and want to keep their leaves above water. The main problem with identifying
all the blacklisted plants is that they are mostly known by goofy trade names
which vary from region-to-region... To make things worse, Portsmouth Tropical Fish true aquatics are
sometimes sold under one of these trade names as well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so it's best to know the plant's scientific name!
umbrella pine
ground pines/club mosses
(Lycopodium)
aluminum plant (Pilea cadairei)
crinkle (Hemigraphis)
green hedge
underwater palm
spider plant (Chlorophytum)
Chinese evergreen
arrowhead -- either Syngonium (the
houseplant) or a species of Sagittaria that doesn't do well submerged.
pongol sword
sandriana, Portsmouth Tropical Fish green dragon plant
(Dracena sanderana) -- tall corn-like stalk, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dark green sword-like leaves with
white edges.
mondo grass, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fountain plant
(Ophiopogon japonicus) -- Grassy, Portsmouth Tropical Fish leaves in one plane.
Japanese rush (Acorus gramineus) -- looks like mondo.
Brazil sword, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Borneo swords
(Spathiphyllum sp.). S. wallisii may be suitable for submersion
according to Rataj.
scarlet hygro/dragon
flame/alligator weed (Alternanthera sessilis and other sp.) -- see stem plant
listing as some varieties can be grown.
Legend
Most plants that grow under low or medium light will usually
do even better under higher light. Exceptions are noted. Here is what each
symbol means:
High light
requirement
Medium light
requirement
Low light requirement
Tolerates
brackish or high-pH water.
Fast grower
Floating plant
Stem Plants
To propagate most stem plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cut the stem and replant the
top cutting. You can also leave the bottom part (the mother plant) planted, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and
it will sprout two or more new side shoots. Some stem plants will grow out of
the water (emersed) and produce flowers. Most stem plants are suited for
grouping as background plants.
Alternanthera reineckii (scarlet hygro, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc.)
Scarlet to deep red color, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which turns
olive in lower light conditions. Not to be confused with A. sessilis
sold under the same common names, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this species can
truly grow underwater. (TAG 6:4, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 6:5)
Bacopa (water hyssop)
A bog plant that grows OK underwater, Portsmouth Tropical Fish background or filler
plant. Pale green-to-red fleshy leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish up to 16" tall stem. 68-78F. Makes good background or side plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in groups.
Cabomba (fanwort)
Stems up to 20" (50cm) tall.
Leaves resemble fine pine needles, Portsmouth Tropical Fish fanning out from central stem. Pair of leaves at each node. Will tend to break apart and
litter the aquarium if light is too low. Difficult to grow;
needs high fertilization.
Cardimine lyrata
Beautiful, Portsmouth Tropical Fish delicate plant. Small (1/2 - 1") heart-shaped leaves with wavy edges on a thin
stem. Grows roots above water at each node.
Tolerates cold water very well; will overwinter outdoors at temperatures around
freezing, Portsmouth Tropical Fish even when emersed. Leaves look kind of like Hydrocotoyle sp., Portsmouth Tropical Fish but
stem is straight.
Ceratophyllym demersum (hornwort)
Very hardy. Whorls
of forked leaves. Grows leggy under medium light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish quickly under better conditions. No roots, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so
can be kept free-floating or planted. Lengths up to 2 feet.
Elodea/Egeria (anachris)
Prefers low temperature (50-77F) tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish somewhat alkaline pH. Translucent green whorled
leaves. Good goldfish food and tank oxygenator. Can be kept
free-floating or rooted. Nice beginner plant.
Hydrocotoyle leucocephala (water pennywort)
Tall stem plant (over 20") with heart-shaped green
leaves of 1" diameter. Develops several small roots at
each node. Tolerates 50-82F. Will grow floating
when it reaches the top of the water and flower in the aquarium. Doesn't root well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so needs to be refreshed occasionally from
cuttings. Leaves look kind of like Cardimine lyrata.
Hygrophila corymbosa (giant hygro, Portsmouth Tropical Fish temple plant)
Also known as Nomaphila stricta.
Light green leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish sometimes with reddish veins. Easily grows out of the
water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish where leaves turn dark reddish green. Big plant; makes good
corner/background in large deep tanks. Grows quickly given high fertilization. Fairly hardy. Another species with similar appearance and
requirements is ``narrow-leaved hygro'' (probably H. augustifolia).
Hygrophila difformis (water wisteria)
Easy to grow. Prefers high light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but grows slowly under medium. Fine branched light green leaves. Has different
emersed leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and flowers above water. Propagated from
cuttings. Also known as Synnema triflorum. Sometimes confused with water sprite.
Hygrophila polysperma (green hygro, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Indian hygro)
Spreads like a weed. Green under medium
light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but gets brownish tinge (and grows larger) in high light.
``Sunset'' and variegated varieties are available, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but harder to grow. (TAG 7:4)
Limnophila sp. (ambulia)
Similar in appearance to Cabomba, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but less
light-demanding. Grows light green leaves in whorls at each node
(Cabomba has a pair of leaves at each node). There are two common species, Portsmouth Tropical Fish L.
aquatica and L. sessiliflora. The former is larger, Portsmouth Tropical Fish more
bushy, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and has finer leaves. It is hardy in tropical aquaria with high
light.
Lobelia cardinalis
Similar/same the red-flowered land garden plant. Rumored to
leach poison if cut.
Ludwigia repens
Spade-shaped leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish dark green to brownish colored. Stiff stems, Portsmouth Tropical Fish up to 20" (50cm) long. For me, Portsmouth Tropical Fish transplant
stems sometimes rot.
Mayaca fluviatilis
Very pretty plant. Light green, Portsmouth Tropical Fish narrow leaves about 1/2" long, Portsmouth Tropical Fish arranged in whorls. Attractive
for background plantings. Became commonly available in
1994. Like Hygrophila species, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it seems to be a delicacy for fish. Doesn't root well, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so plantings need to be refreshed from cuttings.
Myriophyllum (water milfoil)
Temperate water plant that needs good
lighting. Good for background. Fine, Portsmouth Tropical Fish green to reddish green leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish depending on the species. Produces coarser leaves above
water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which will flower.
Rotala
Very delicate leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish easily
damaged. Grows up to 20" tall, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so they make excellent
background plants. R. indica can grow in medium light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but just will not
stay as green. R. macrandra is largest, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and hardest to cultivate. It has red
leaves with pink undersides, Portsmouth Tropical Fish turning to green in lower light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and requires iron
fertilization to maintain its red color.
Utricularia (bladderwort)
``Rosette'' Plants
These plants reproduce vegetatively (asexually) by runners
or stalks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which you can usually cut after the new plant is large enough to
grow on its own. Like stem plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish many will grow emersed and produce flowers
in that state. Generally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they prefer slightly-soft acidic water (2-3dKH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish pH
5.5-7).
Anubias
72-82F (22-28C). Not really a
rosette plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Anubias all have a creeping rhizome that grows very slowly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish throwing out new leaves as it grows. The plant is built like a tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some
having reported keeping them in a closet for six months in a plastic bag yet
still surviving. It is also one of the most expensive aquarium plants. If grown
emersed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they may produce larger leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and will grow faster, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and flowers will
produce seeds. Anubias will frequently flower underwater, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but not seed. You can
grow the roots in gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or even train the rhizome to grow on bogwood like
Java fern does. (TAG 6:2) Most commonly kept species is A. barteri var. nana, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the smallest Anubias, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which has egg-shaped leaves and makes a great foreground
plant in medium-to-large aquariums. A. barteri var. barteri looks similar to
the nana variety, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but with bigger leaves. A. congensis, Portsmouth Tropical Fish A. lanceolata and
others grow very tall and make good background plants. They can sometimes be
seen in better stores.
Aponogeton
Tuber. Needs rest period (triggered
after blooming? drops its leaves), Portsmouth Tropical Fish except for hybrid crispus. Easy beginner plant. Foreground plant singly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or background
in groups. Most species flower by sending up a stalk with single or double-spike
and seed easily. (Grows very slowly from seeds, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and you must protect the young
seedlings from fish.) (TAG 4:3) Oft seen Species:
bouvianus
crispus: up to 20" (50cm)
tall, Portsmouth Tropical Fish red to green leaves; easy starter plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish often sold as bulbs at Wal-Mart.
Single-spike flower stem, Portsmouth Tropical Fish slightly-undulating leaf margins.
elongatus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish
ulvaceus: 10-20" (25-50cm)
wavy light green leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish twin-spiked flower.
undulatus: 16" (40cm)
slightly-undulating leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish smooth in low light. Flowers
rarely.
Aponogeton madagascariensis (Madagascar Lace Plant)
Very desired plant because of its
6-18" leaves which are actually a lace-like skeleton. Pink self-fertile flowers on double-spiked stalk. Likes rich substrate. Observe dormancy period! Dies in water over 80F. Difficult plant to
grow.
Barclaya longifolia (orchid lily)
10-20" (25-50cm) delicate brownish or
olive-green leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish moderately-undulated margins. Likes warmed substrate
and warm aquariums (75-82F). Foreground single plant. Often rots on transplant.
Flowers and seeds easily by sending a stalk to the surface, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or will remain
submerged and closed (seeds still viable). Very difficult to
grow. (TAG 4:1).
Crinum (``onion bulb'')
As the name implies, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it grows from a bulb and looks like a
scallion. Bright-green leaves are huge 20-40" (50-100cm), Portsmouth Tropical Fish and recommended
only for large aquariums. Does better in bright light.
Cryptocoryne (most species)
Shocks on transplant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish takes up to months to adjust to new
tank, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so don't move them once you've planted them. Crypt rot caused by sudden
water chemistry/quality changes. Spreads by rhizome; new plants develop at
nodes. -> Not a good beginner plant. Often sold potted in
rockwool, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which reduces the above shocks. Usually prefers acidic water.
Some species will not tolerate high light. Requires iron fertilization and
likes rich substrate. (TAG 4:1, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 4:2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 5:1, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 5:2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 5:3, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 5:4) Oft-seen species:
affinis: emerald-green 4-12"
(10-30cm) leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish red undersides. Foreground plant in large aquariums or center
plants in small tanks. Grows OK in alkaline water.
balansae: likes higher light?
becketii: likes higher light?
lutea: easier crypt to grow.
walkeri
wendtii: easier crypt to grow. bronze, Portsmouth Tropical Fish red, Portsmouth Tropical Fish green varieties. wrinkled
leaves. Up to 8" tall. Adaptable to high light
and will grow with CO2.
Echinodorus (Amazon swords)
Most are good as single highlight plant, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or background
groups in large aquariums. Like high levels of fertilizer. Can
grow emersed. Reproduce by adventitious plants on end of stalks runners, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or root division, Portsmouth Tropical Fish depending on species. (TAG 4:5, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 5:5, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 7:1, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 7:5) Common
species:
bleheri, Portsmouth Tropical Fish paniculatus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish amazonicus:
Your generic amazon swords, Portsmouth Tropical Fish usually available in small, Portsmouth Tropical Fish medium or large. Light
green leaves can be over 20" (50cm). Produces plantlets
directly on the flower stalk.
cordifolius (radican sword):
heart-shaped leaves. Likes being emersed; will flower in open-top aquarium.
Sends floating leaves if illumination is low.
major/maior (ruffle sword)
osiris (melon sword): blood-red
slightly-undulate leaves.
parviflorus (tropico sword):
smaller variety.
tenellus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish quadricostatus (pygmy
chain sword): leaves up to 6", Portsmouth Tropical Fish 72-86F. Fast reproduction by runners; can
create a lawn on large enough tank. Small plants; nice
foreground display.
Lemna (duckweed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish green plague)
Tiny (1/4") plant with a pair of
leaves and a root. Reproduces very quickly. A
very noxious weed, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hard to eradicate, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and most fish don't like to eat it. Try a
floating fern such as Salvinia instead of this one.
Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae (``micro sword'')
64-77F. This plant sold under this
name is probably L. braziliensis, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a South American Liaeopsis. It slowly spreads
out in thick "turf" of grass, Portsmouth Tropical Fish about three 1-3" long light green
grass-like leaves per plant. Nice spawning medium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish foreground plant.
Nuphar (spatterdock)
Water lily-like plant. Usually sold as rhizome end-cutting, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which rots away in a month.
Likes colder temperatures.
Nymphaea (Water Lily, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tiger lotus)
Bulb. Delicate leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish colors
varying from red to green with possible mottled spots, Portsmouth Tropical Fish depending on the
variety. Pinch off floating leaves if you want only submerged ones.
Reproduction is by blooms, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or side-tubers from the main bulb. Need 3-5 floating
leaves for it to bloom.
Nymphoides aquatica (banana plant)
Olive-colored Heart-shaped leaves that look superficially
like water lily, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and banana-like tubers on roots. Plant by
sticking the tubers 1/3 in the gravel. Prefers lower
temperatures. Throws out floating leaves if light and
fertilization is good.
Pistia stratiotes (water lettuce)
Very demanding plant that prefers full sun (where it will
grow the size of actual lettuce) over aquarium conditions (where it might be
the size of a quarter). Reproduces by runners. Buy at
water garden supply stores.
Sagittaria (sag, Portsmouth Tropical Fish arrowhead)
Straight-bladed green grass. Many
different varieties, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some small foreground plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish some rather big. Hardy. Propagates by runner. S.
subulata grows 4-24" leaves and throws up small white flowers in shallow
water. 63-82F.
Valisneria
Grass. Reproduction
by runners. Some find it grows wildly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish then
mostly dies off, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in a cycle. Wide temperatures 59-86F.
V. spiralis (Italian val) has ribbon-like leaves up to 20" (50cm) and
throws up a spiral stalk when flowering. V. tortifolia grows ``corkscrew''
leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish hence its name Corkscrew val. Other common
species: V. gigantica (Jungle Val).
Wolffia (watermeal)
Similar to duckweed (Lemna), Portsmouth Tropical Fish but even
smaller.
Ferns and Mosses
Azolla (floating fern)
Floating fern that grows out in triangular ``rafts''. Buy at
water garden stores.
Bolbitus heudelotii (African water fern)
Slow-growing creeping rhizome with dark green, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 8"
(20cm) lobed leaves. Tie roots to bogwood like Java fern. Don't bury the
rhizome in the gravel. Can be grown emersed with fast-moving
water.
Ceratopteris (water sprite)
Up to 20" (50cm) tall. Exists as rooted or floating specimens. Good fry shelter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish shade plant. Baby plants grow on older leaves. Confused with
Hygrophila difformis sometimes. Several different
species and/or forms, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which may require more light than others.
Microsorum pteropus (Java fern)
``It's actually Microsorum but everyone writes it as
Microsorium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish '' says Arie De Graff (FAMA, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 1991). This is one of the more hardy aquarium plants. It roots itself to solid objects
like bogwood and rocks (attach with a piece of string or rubber band to hold it
in place at first) and has a creeping rhizome which may be divided for
cuttings. Young plants will also develop directly off spores, Portsmouth Tropical Fish attached to old
leaves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and can be cut off and rooted. In high light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it produces tough, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plastic-like leaves; under low light the leaves are more delicate. Fronds are
up to 8" (20cm) long and undivided, Portsmouth Tropical Fish though on
older plants are trilobade (three lobes to a frond).
Riccia fluitans (floating liverwort, Portsmouth Tropical Fish crystalwort)
Big tangly glop like Java moss; good
livebearer fry cover. Grows fast under high light.
Salvinia (floating fern)
Small floating fern that grows in long
chains of two oval leaves and a ``root-like'' third leaf. Easier to control than duckweed. Buy it at water garden
supply stores, Portsmouth Tropical Fish as it's too cheap for most aquarium shops.
Vesicularia dubyana (Java moss)
Grows in branching strands, Portsmouth Tropical Fish tangling
around other plants. Dark green. Makes good spawning medium and cover for young fry. Min temp
75F. May dislike salt.
All plants have a cycle in which during the light hours they
use CO2 and release Oxygen through a process called photosynthesis. During the
dark hours the opposite occurs and the plants use Oxygen and release CO2 in a
process referred to as respiration. In most aquarium plants the period of
photosynthesis in nature is between 10 and 12 hours which should be duplicated
as closely as possible in the aquarium to allow a balance between the two
processes.
In nature some plants are located in large open ponds and
receive a large quantity of light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish others are located in triple canopy jungles
and receive low quantities of light. Each variety of plant has its own light
requirements and for best aquarium results these requirements should be met as
much as possible. In this FAQ we will divide the plants into groupings that
require low light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish low to moderate light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish moderate to bright light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and bright
light. There are also bog plants that are often sold as aquarium plants which
we shall not cover in this FAQ except to mention here that their lighting
requirements are usually greater than even the bright grouping.
Fluorescent lighting is the most economical means of
establishing a broad spectrum of light in an adequate quantity for the survival
of aquatic plants. It is recommended that broad spectrum tubes be used to
produce the proper lighting similar to the varieties sold in plant stores and
aquarium stores, Portsmouth Tropical Fish rather than the standard cool white bulbs available at
hardware stores. People have had good luck with almost any of the "full
spectrum" or plant specific bulbs (Vita-Lite, Portsmouth Tropical Fish GE Chroma 50 and 75, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Phillips
Agro-Lite, Portsmouth Tropical Fish UltraLume and Advantage X). The more expensive "three
phosphor" bulbs like Triton and Penn-Plax Ultra-TriLux seem to have a more
realistic color rendition. You can combine different types of bulbs to achieve
the same results but the tri-phosphor bulbs are generally much brighter than
less expensive types. Note that fluorescent bulbs age and will lose intensity
over time. It is recommended that bulbs be changed every 6-12 months (try to
have the bulbs on a rotating schedule, Portsmouth Tropical Fish i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish a new bulb every 3 months rather
than 2 new bulbs every 6 months).
When calculating the amount of lighting you will need there
is a general of thumb. First multiply the surface area of the aquarium by the
distance from the light source to the top of the gravel. Then depending on the
type of plants you desire multiply this by one of the factors given below.
Low light
plants 0.08
Low to
Moderate light plants 0.12
Moderate to
Bright light plants 0.18
Bright
light plants 0.27
This will give you the ideal watt hours of fluorescent
lighting that you need. Divide this number by 11 and you now have the
approximate total wattage of lights you need. Unfortunately this number may not
be equal to what is available in bulbs so find the combination of wattage that
will most closely match this requirement and adjust the available time to match
the watt hour calculation.
Example: required watt hours is 1440, Portsmouth Tropical Fish divided by 11, Portsmouth Tropical Fish is 131
watts of power. since the closest is 3, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 40 watt tubes
we divide 1440, Portsmouth Tropical Fish by the 120 watt total and we find we need 12 hours of lighting
at this level.
Warning: A common mistake is to deviate greatly from the 11
hours of light to compensate for low or high wattage. If the light time exceeds
16 hours more wattage should be added to reduce this time, Portsmouth Tropical Fish Or
if the light time is less than 8 hours less wattage must be used to allow
adequate time for photosynthesis.
When selecting plants also keep in mind that large center
plants will shade the smaller plants under them and that higher light requiring
plants should not be selected for small filler plants.
Converting a fluorescent fixture to auto-start
Many older or cheaper fluorescent fixtures require you to
hold down a pushbutton for a few seconds to turn it on, Portsmouth Tropical Fish thus preventing you
from plugging it into a timer. You can convert such a fixture into an
auto-starting model by clipping two wires and buying two new parts. You need a
starter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish a little gray can-like thing found in any hardware store. Make sure to
buy the correct one for your size bulb; they say which is right on the package.
You also need to buy a socket for the starter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish or find some way to attach the
wires directly to the two terminals on the starter. The sockets can sometimes
be hard-to-find, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but big hardware stores might have them, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and mail-order fish
suppliers (MOPS, Portsmouth Tropical Fish for instance) can sell you both parts as a kit. Refer to the
diagram below:
Anyone who has observed the explosive growth of aquarium
plants in response to carbon dioxide (CO2) fertilization must be convinced of
the usefulness of this system. Certainly, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are thousands of aquarium
hobbyists who do not give their plants any sort of special treatment and still
end up with a fairly nice display. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish truly luxuriant growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the sort
that you see on the covers of aquarium magazines and in pictures of "Dutch
aquariums, Portsmouth Tropical Fish " can only be achieved by fertilizing with CO2.
During photosynthesis, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants use light energy to capture
CO2. This CO2 is used to build the basic carbon structures from which all plant
material is made. In a poorly lit aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish light is likely to be what limits
the rate of plant growth. The amount of CO2 produced by fish- and bacterial
respiration is more than enough to allow photosynthesis under these conditions.
If on the other hand, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you try to make your plants grow faster by adding more
light, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is likely that there will not be enough CO2 in your aquarium. The
plants simply can not grow as fast as they would like to, Portsmouth Tropical Fish given the available
light energy.
The easiest way to increase the amount of CO2 in an aquarium
is to buy a tank of CO2 and let it bubble into the water. Several, Portsmouth Tropical Fish mostly
German, Portsmouth Tropical Fish companies sell systems for adding CO2 into the outflow of your canister
filter. If you buy your CO2 system from someone like Dupla, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you are likely to
spend about $300. That seems a bit pricey, Portsmouth Tropical Fish doesn't it? Fortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is very
easy and also a fair bit cheaper to buy a CO2 tank at a local welding supply
place and use it to bubble CO2 into the water.
CO2 in the tank is under high pressure. A pressure regulator
brings this pressure down to a manageable level, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and ordinary aquarium air
valves can be used to regulate the flow to individual aquariums. [Editor's
note: this is counter to general net-experience. Most of us end up installing a
fine-metering needle valve after the normal regulator in order to regulate the
flow down to a few bubbles per second, Portsmouth Tropical Fish because normal aquarium air valves do
not have good enough control.] The CO2 reactor is simply a small chamber that
allows the CO2 to be dissolved in the water before it escapes into the air.
Outflow from a filter or a pump enters the top of the reactor; CO2 is bubbled
in from the bottom. To give the CO2 more time to dissolve, Portsmouth Tropical Fish one can add a system
of baffles to trap the gas as it is moving up. Near the top of the reactor, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there should be a small hole to vent other gases, Portsmouth Tropical Fish which may be present in small
amounts in the compressed CO2. These gases do not dissolve as readily in water
as CO2 does.
I purchased my CO2 tank and regulator at Wesco on Vassar Street in Cambridge. Their current
(May 1992) prices are: 5 lbs CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish $52.50, Portsmouth Tropical Fish refill $9.74; 20 lbs CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish $101.75, Portsmouth Tropical Fish refill $19.55. A CO2 pressure regulator is "$79 and change." People
who have better welding connections than I do might be able to get things more
cheaply than that. [Editor's note: look in the PLANT RESOURCES section for more
current prices and good inexpensive sources.] Refills are generally not a very
big expense. My 20 lb CO2 tank is used on three aquariums (30, Portsmouth Tropical Fish 65, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and 110
gallons) and lasts about three years between refills. That works out to about
$2 per aquarium per year. Other possible sources of CO2 that I have not
investigated are CO2 fire extinguishers and the CO2 canisters they use to put
the bubbles in beer and soft drinks. Don't bother trying to rig up something
with dry ice, Portsmouth Tropical Fish it is too complicated.
The tubing and valves that I use for my CO2 setup are the sort that one buys for use with the aquarium air
pumps. It is better to get the brass rather than the plastic valves, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since it
is easier to make fine adjustments with them and they also tend to leak less.
Even a tiny leak can empty out a gas tank distressingly quickly. I check all of
my valves and connections with a soap solution and make sure that no bubbles
appear.
The CO2 reactor can easily be constructed out of any wide
bore tube. I use the lift tubes from an undergravel filter in my aquariums. Local
aquarium enthusiast Jim Bardwell does well with the top half of a one-liter
coke bottle, Portsmouth Tropical Fish with the filter hose attached to where the cap should be. It is
best to use a clear plastic, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so that one can see what is happening inside.
Baffles, Portsmouth Tropical Fish designed to let the water cascade down in one direction and to trap
the CO2 moving in the other direction, Portsmouth Tropical Fish are helpful, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but not absolutely
necessary. I make my baffles out of foam cubes that I cut to the right size and
shape to fit inside the tube. Jim simply lets the CO2 collect at the top of the
reactor, Portsmouth Tropical Fish where the water is coming in. He does not have a vent and does not
seem to have a problem with excess gas accumulating.
While a small increase in the amount of CO2 in the water
causes lush plant growth, Portsmouth Tropical Fish too much CO2 can prove to be toxic. CO2 dissolved in
water forms carbonic acid (H2CO3). With weakly buffered water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish like what comes
out of the tap in the Boston
area, Portsmouth Tropical Fish adding too much CO2 can bring the pH down to as low as 3. That is not
quite as acidic as Coca Cola, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but about equal to vinegar. Naturally, Portsmouth Tropical Fish this can
cause death or other serious reactions in your fish and plants.
One can buy CO2 test kits that measure the actual level of
CO2 in the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but measuring the pH and counting the bubbles in the CO2
reactor works just about as well. It is best to start off by adding CO2 very
slowly (about one to three bubbles per minute) and increasing the rate until a
small, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but measurable drop in pH is achieved. In my 30-gallon aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish I add
one bubble of CO2 every three to four seconds to bring the pH from 7 to between
6 and 6.5. How much CO2 one needs to add varies from aquarium to aquarium and
can depend on several factors: the size of the aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish how fast the plants
are growing, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the number of fish, Portsmouth Tropical Fish how much food is decaying on the bottom, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the
buffering capacity of the water, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the types of rock and gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and how well
ventilated the surface of the water is. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish anything in the range of one
bubble every two to fifteen seconds seems to work pretty well. Bubble size will
vary with the diameter of the tubing. I am referring to the sort of bubbles
that come out of the end of ordinary, Portsmouth Tropical Fish one eighth inch inside diameter aquarium
air tubing.
By using a CO2 reactor, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you are saturating the water with
CO2, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and any excessive agitation of the water surface or bubbling of air
through the water will cause the CO2 to escape into the atmosphere, Portsmouth Tropical Fish just about
as quickly as you can add it. Thus, Portsmouth Tropical Fish at least during the day, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should *not*
have an airstone or an undergravel filter turned on. If you have a plant
aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you should probably not be using an undergravel filter, Portsmouth Tropical Fish anyway, Portsmouth Tropical Fish since
most kinds of plants do better without one. When the lights are on, Portsmouth Tropical Fish plants use
CO2 and produce oxygen. In my tanks, Portsmouth Tropical Fish so much oxygen is being produced, Portsmouth Tropical Fish that I
can often see it forming streams of bubbles from the plants. At night, Portsmouth Tropical Fish on the
other hand, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the plants are actually using oxygen (and not CO2) If there are not
too many fish in the aquarium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish then the oxygen produced by the plants during
the day will tide everyone over until the next morning. However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish if you notice
that your fish are gasping at the surface in the mornings, Portsmouth Tropical Fish they are obviously
running out of oxygen. To remedy this problem, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you can simply turn on an air
stone when the lights go out. This will keep up the oxygen level and remove
excess CO2. I have the aquarium lights and an air pump on two separate timers;
when one turns on, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the other one turns off. It would also be fairly easy to rig
up a solenoid valve for the CO2 supply and have it turn the CO2 on and off with
the same timer that is regulating the lights.
The system that I have described here and
use is a very basic one that works well. For those who like those sorts
of things, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the automation possibilities are almost limitless. My brother Albrecht, Portsmouth Tropical Fish who is an electronics whiz, Portsmouth Tropical Fish has his entire aquarium run by a TRS-80 computer.
Among many other things, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the computer measures the pH, Portsmouth Tropical Fish adds more CO2 if the pH
is above a predetermined level, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and sounds an alarm if the CO2 tank is running
low. Fortunately, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you don't need all of that to have a truly great-looking
plant tank. There are more than thirty kinds of thriving plants in my
aquariums; I have to weed out bunches once a week, Portsmouth Tropical Fish and I have enough extras to
supply all of my aquarium friends and still sell some at the monthly BAS
auction. The fish are also doing well and reproducing.
CO2 makes it easy to grow aquarium plants, Portsmouth Tropical Fish but it is not a
cure-all. You still have to observe some of the other essentials of proper
plant care. Aquarium plants need a lot of light. When using fluorescent bulbs, Portsmouth Tropical Fish I usually figure about four watts per gallon. Wide-spectrum plant and aquarium
bulbs seem to work better than the "soft white" ones that you can buy
at the hardware store. The amount of iron in most aquariums is too low for
maximum plant growth. I supplement the iron by adding "Micronized
Iron" to the canister filter (about one teaspoon at every cleaning) and
"Ortho Greenol" directly to the water (two drops per ten gallons per
day). Both of these are available at gardening stores. Other nutrients and
trace elements that your plants need are usually taken care of when you feed
the fish and do water changes (frequently). Also, Portsmouth Tropical Fish don't forget the regular
sacrifices of goat entrails to the aquarium gods, Portsmouth Tropical Fish at midnight when the moon is
full.
Much of the mystery surrounding heating cables is that Dupla
has been careful to hide the rationale to protect their product, Portsmouth Tropical Fish i.e., Portsmouth Tropical Fish keep it
"magic".
I think a key concept is that we are NOT trying to mimic
what happens in nature (even though the Dupla description implies that) but we
are trying the achieve an equivalent biological
affect.
In nature, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you have sources of underground water moving to
the surface or surface water moving to aquifers due to natural pressure
differentials. Dupla mentions this in terms of "nutrient springs" in
tropical streams. In our aquariums, Portsmouth Tropical Fish there are no such natural pressures to
cause any movement (except for UGF, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc).
The water column will tend to keep the gravel at water
temperature through conductive heating; heat will "seep" downward.
However, Portsmouth Tropical Fish in glass tanks especially, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the glass bottom is radiating heat into the
room, Portsmouth Tropical Fish cabinet, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc, Portsmouth Tropical Fish unless insulation is provided. This will tend to keep the
roots cooler than the water temperature. Even with insulation, Portsmouth Tropical Fish you'll find the
bottom of the substrate cooler than the top, Portsmouth Tropical Fish just not as much.
Here is a list of substrate processes I think are important
(no particular order of importance implied):
Provide warmth in the substrate for certain plant species
(Barclaya longifolia, Portsmouth Tropical Fish specifically). In this case the substrate should be
warmer than the water. (``hot feet'')
Provide warmth in the substrate to speed up biochemical
processes.
Transport nutrients from the water into the substrate.
Important nutrients would be ammonium (fish waste, Portsmouth Tropical Fish etc), Portsmouth Tropical Fish iron (from trace
element additions), Portsmouth Tropical Fish calcium, Portsmouth Tropical Fish potassium and other trace elements. This will
replenish nutrients used by the roots and provide long term viability (in terms
of years).
Transport harmful products out of the substrate.
Decomposition products may be harmful to plant roots. There is also conjecture
that plants give off low level toxins to keep other plants out of their
territory (successful weeds have made this an art form). If these toxins build
up due to poor circulation, Portsmouth Tropical Fish the plant may harm itself.
Provide a chelating medium that binds the divalent state of
trace elements with an organic molecule, Portsmouth Tropical Fish enabling the trace element to be
adsorbed by root hairs.
Provide a reducing rather than oxidizing environment so that
trace elements are kept in their divalent state (usable by plants) or are
reduced from their oxidized trivalent state. Iron especially will rapidly
oxidize in water with normal levels of oxygen.
Heating coils provide the ``hot feet'' and warmth for
biochemical processes directly. The convection currents generated by the
"spot" heat source of the coils provide for nutrient and toxin
transport. Laterite in the bottom 1/3 of the substrate provides the chelating
medium. The slow convection currents, Portsmouth Tropical Fish coupled with nitrifying bacteria in the
gravel will reduce the concentration of oxygen getting to the bottom layer of
the gravel, Portsmouth Tropical Fish providing a reducing environment.
A heating pad under the tank will tend to warm the entire
bottom layer un
